Passion Of The Ocean.
Chapter 1 - Passionate about one thing.
Claires POV
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport. We are all passionate about surfing. Me, Shane and Michael. There is never a time when the four of us arent talking about the water.
Doing something you love, with the people you love is one of the best things you could ask for and right now, I couldnt ask for anything better. Seen as though the weather in Morganville, Texas is beautiful, we are always in the water.
Michael is the best out of the four of us. He has been surfing his whole life. Then theres Eve, shes amazing, for a girl. Shane, well Shanes the type that just paddles out into the middle of the ocean all reared up, ready to catch a wave and when his chance comes, he craps his pants and clings to the surf board. Like me, Ive only been surfing for a year. Since I moved into the Glass House, the three of them god me pretty much attached to the idea of riding a perfect wave. Though Ive never actually been able to do anything once a wave hits me. I just try to stand up and keep my balance. That only happens for a good second or two, then I fall down while Michael and Eve and inches above my head, riding a wave like it was a piece of cake.
Thats what you have to understand about surfing. You can't hesitate. Once you have the wave in site, you have to go for it. Fear may come over you but you can't let it get in the way.
Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true. In this case, falling of the surf board and waiting ages for the next ride is our fear.
Today, the four of us as normal go out at the crack of dawn and get straight into the water. The sunset was beautiful in the horizon and it the wind for perfect for a morning surf.
'Lets do this!' Eve shrieked and ran for the water. As always, she was the first in and the first the catch a wave. Me and Shane normally spend a good ten minutes paddling in. We just paddle slowly talking, just the two of us. Michael on the other hand, took it all so seriously, he waited for the biggest and baddest wave to show us all up.
'Ready dude?' Michael says to Shane.
'You know I'm crap at this, but yeah. Totally ready' Shane smiled and took my hand into his with a warm smile.
'Dude, your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge' Michael says, giving Shane a manly pat on the back before running after Eve into the ocean.
Me and Shane run hand in hand into the cool sea and dive on our surf boards. We slowly paddle out to the middle of the ocean where Eve and Michael were. Michael had already caught a huge wave and was wooping whilst trying to keep his balance.
'SHANE! THERES ONE COMING UP! NOWS YOUR CHANCE! REMEMBER WHAT I SAID! WAVE KNOWLEDGE!' Michael screams before he plummets down from the wave and into the water.
'Wave knowlegde' Shane repeated under his breathe. He then paddles away from me slowly, stalking the wave which was fastly approaching.
'GET IT SHANE!' I yell from behind him. He starts to paddle more fiercly the wave hit him full on. At first, I thought he was down, But once the wave grew bigger, Shane apeared from under it, standing up and rocking from side to side.
'YES SHANE! KEEP THE BALANCE! YOU'RE DOING AWESOME!' Eve shouts as she comes up from behind me.
'Hes getting better isn't he?' I ask with my eyes still fixed on Shane.
'Totally. Its great isnt it. Being here. Together.' Eve smiles.
'Its awesome' I exclaim, not noticing the huge grin on my face as I watch Shane proudly catch his first wave. This is how its supposed to be, us four together doing the thing we love. But I didnt know that it was soon going to all change for the worst and my life would get turned upside down.
Okay so this is my new story! Sorry for the boring first chapter but I just needed to show you guys how passionate they are about this sport. This story is going to get really interesting as it progresses! I have been planning it for days now so I hope you all read on! Please Review! Next update will be tomorrow :) xxxxx