The ocean is calm, warm from the sun and glistening as the beams hit it. The waves lift mesmerizingly up in the air as the many surfer's slice through the ocean's surface. There's a slight breeze, but not enough to cause real damage on the water. I've been surfing as long as I can remember-it's in my blood to surf. My dad, Kelly, surfs and my mom, Joni, and my brother Rider.
I'm Troy. The youngest, but I don't mind-my family's close and we connect through surfing. We all live in Hawaii. "Hey!" I smile when my brother Rider paddles up to me; he's 21 and I'm 17, so not too far apart in age groups. "Troy the surf is great, why you sitting here?"
I laugh, running a hand through my soaking wet hair, "just staring at the horizon. It's beautiful." "Yeah yeah." Rider scoffs, splashing me with water, "get surfing or I post all your baby pictures all over town." "Ha!" I guffaw, "Like I'd let you!' Rider laughs loudly, paddling out to the big wave coming, I paddle after him. A little brotherly competition. My absolute favorite.
As the waves came up, My board under me rised up a little bit, I stood completely still trying to keep my balance on the board as I surfed on the waves. Rider was right beside me, we surfed each other as we went through the tunnel of a wave.
Soon we landed on flate ocean of water and swam to shore. I ran my wet hair back, and smiled at my brother, "Great waves today bro." he gave him a high-five. Rider chuckled, "Yeah..I know.." We rushed to our house that was only a few blocks away from the beach.
"Hey guys!" Yelled my mom, I laugh, Joni Bolton-fomerly Joni Heinke-is in her mid to late thirties but acts as young as Rider. My dad, Kelly Bolton, does the same thing. Cool parents. "how was the surf?" "Awesome." I say along with rider at the same time, I walk into the kitchen and grab an apple, taking a huge bite.
"Troy! That bite was too big!" I roll my eyes, she's a good mom too. "Yeah Troy." Rider teases, "too big of bite-" "Screw off Rider." "Language." My mom scolds, however, her eyes are smirking. She doesn't mind. Really.
"So..." I say, sitting on the stool that's in the kitchen island, "where's dad?" "he's at the doctor's. Seeing why his knee keeps giving out the way it does." "Knee replacement?" Rider asks, she nods. "I'm predicting. Anyway, you boys need to get ready for church."
I nodded, "Okay Mom.." me and Rider both rush upstairs to get ready for church. Our family goes to church every sunday, So we just been used to getting ready for church everyday at this hour since I could remember.
Rider was fixing his jacket, "So, Us and a few of my buddies, are going surfing later tonight... it's suppose to be a full moon, and there's suppose to be some serious waves." I smiled, "Is that a challenge?" Rider smirked, "You bet it is."
"Then I'm up for it." I say, looking at my reflection in the mirror. Nice. I turn toward Rider, laughing, "Need help with that tie? Whose the hot date?" "Shut up bonehead." I laugh, "ditch the tie. You're fine without it."
Rider sighs, pulling it from his neck and tossing it on his bed and we both make our way to the car that we both know mom has ready and running cause she's prepared and ready before the both of us. Or all three of the guys in the house-which is the vast majority; My dad, Rider and me. Yupp. "mom!" Rider yells, "me and Troy will wait in the car!"
My mom yells out an 'okay!' and we race to the car-ah, the brotherly competition never ends. I love it. However, Rider always ends beating for shot gun. Literally, last time he accidentally gave a black eye with his shoulder. Time after that he got shot gun, but I gave him a busted wrist and he wasn't able to surf for a week. Ha!
*Through Different Waters We All Connect*
After church let out, Me and my brother raced to the car, My mother stood back crossing her arms, "Boys, where you going?" me and Rider lifted out or surf boards in the back seat. "Mom, big waves tonight.. we wanna catch some of them before anybody else does." My mother smiled, "OKay, be careful."
She kissed both her son's cheeks, "And Don't forget about your dad's surgery." "We won't!" I yelled back as me and Rider carried our surf boards under our arms rushing to the beach.
We get to the beach, I kick off my shoes instantly; just feeling the sand between my toes makes me...I've loved the beach since I was a kid. Practically a baby I've loved the beach, the ocean. Hmm. It's in my blood. "I'll race you to the waves!" I yell to my brother, I'm already in my swim trunks-which I've worn under my church slacks.
Rider yells a curse word at me but I laugh and keep running into the water and paddle out. The water surrounds me and I smile contently, a big wave comes up and I let out a laugh as I stand up and slice through the water like it was made of butter.
I felt the water move under my hand, A good surfer always knows when a wave is coming. Rider catched up with me, "This is great isn't it." I looked at him, "what?" Rider shrugged his shoulders, but smiled, "That we get to come out here, everyday, it's a great way to get away from our parents and lifes."
I chuckled, "Yeah I know what you mean." I moved my left arm along the waves, but the next thing I know, my arm losing feeling, and a sharp bite going into my arm.
I just scream, I can't feel my arm and everything is fuzzy and fading.."Oh God!" Rider yells, grabbing my board and paddling me to the beach, "Kick Troy! Kick!" "I...I'm..." my voice is fading fast, I hear Rider calling for help and his friends are rushing towards us.
What's happening? My head begins to feel heavy and my arm is even more numb but there's a stinging feeling from the salt water. "Troy! You'll be fine!" Rider yells, I think we're on the shore now, I don't know...I'm rolled on my back and the sun is a blinding ball of fuzzy light. "Help! Somebody! Call 911!"
I heard Rider freaking out on me, my arm felt like it was bleeding out, and it was gone. But I couldn't be so sure. I laid on my back on the surf board as they lifted me up on it and into the back of the truck. Rider sat in the back with me, "It's going to be okay Troy..It's going to be okay." He applied pressure to my arm, I couldn't feel it. It felt gone..just..gone.
"Rider..." I manage to whisper out, the vibrations of the truck tell me we're moving. He leans over me, "yeah...what?" I swallow, "mom...dad...call them. Call-" I hiss when I feel a pain, a pain that's there but not there at the same time. I can't explain it. Rider nods, "Yeah I'll do that...but right now I'm focusing on you. Okay? We need to get you to the hospital."
I feel my eyes slip closed, Rider freaks out on me again, "no! Troy don't close your eyes! Don't!" "Tired..." "Don't close your eyes!" My eyes are drooping heavily, I try to feel my arm but I can't...it's just...it just feels not there.
"Blessed be the name of the lord, blessed be your name," Rider sings, he knows it's my favourite christian song. "Sing it with me Troy come on...sing with me...stay awake...come on; blessed be the name of the Lord, blessed be your glorious name."
