"Life Inside the Pipe Line"
Unbelievable Intense Pure Bliss
These are a few of the words that come to my mind as I escape the inner-workings of one of the biggest waves at the Pipe Masters challenge. With the biggest grin I think I'll ever make in my life, my victory smile, I clinch my water soaked fingers into a fist and thrust my arm into the arm. Yes! I silently think to myself but I'm surprised that the entire island can't hear my pleasure filled thoughts. On the beach I can see Penny and Lena, who are ecstatic at my victory; jumping up and down, hugging each other. Matt and Leslie are clapping and cheering along with the rest of the island and I almost think I can see how proud Matt is of me, how much he admires me. It is Eden, however, who makes tears well in my eyes; Eden, my trainer, my friend, my family, is standing on the beach, clapping and nodding her head. She also appears to have tears in her eyes, and she's slowly nodding her head. As I float in closer and can see her muttered the words, "That's my girl," to no one at all except herself. I can't believe that I actually was able to go through with the challenge and score one of the biggest waves. I actually did it! I actually made it! All my dreams are about to come true, all of our dreams. It was hard, though, God it was so hard! But, if I hadn't have scored this wave I wouldn't have been able to live with myself. Eden was right, I was born to do this. But, even though it seems so easy now, I'll never forget how hard it was to get here. Well, I guess that's how it is. My life is all about surfing and surfing is probably one of the hardest sports out there. Hell, I wouldn't know but it's probably the most deadly. But, it's my life. It's life inside the pipe line.
Unbelievable Intense Pure Bliss
These are a few of the words that come to my mind as I escape the inner-workings of one of the biggest waves at the Pipe Masters challenge. With the biggest grin I think I'll ever make in my life, my victory smile, I clinch my water soaked fingers into a fist and thrust my arm into the arm. Yes! I silently think to myself but I'm surprised that the entire island can't hear my pleasure filled thoughts. On the beach I can see Penny and Lena, who are ecstatic at my victory; jumping up and down, hugging each other. Matt and Leslie are clapping and cheering along with the rest of the island and I almost think I can see how proud Matt is of me, how much he admires me. It is Eden, however, who makes tears well in my eyes; Eden, my trainer, my friend, my family, is standing on the beach, clapping and nodding her head. She also appears to have tears in her eyes, and she's slowly nodding her head. As I float in closer and can see her muttered the words, "That's my girl," to no one at all except herself. I can't believe that I actually was able to go through with the challenge and score one of the biggest waves. I actually did it! I actually made it! All my dreams are about to come true, all of our dreams. It was hard, though, God it was so hard! But, if I hadn't have scored this wave I wouldn't have been able to live with myself. Eden was right, I was born to do this. But, even though it seems so easy now, I'll never forget how hard it was to get here. Well, I guess that's how it is. My life is all about surfing and surfing is probably one of the hardest sports out there. Hell, I wouldn't know but it's probably the most deadly. But, it's my life. It's life inside the pipe line.