Cold water washed over Colby's head and then ran down his back and legs as the wave swept over and past him. His head broke the surface, thrusting him back into a world of light and sound. He swung his right arm into the water, executing a powerful stroke through the water. As he paddled through the breakers, duck diving as he went, he felt his heart slow as he relaxed, leaving the FBI and his daily life behind him for a few hours. He was completely in the moment. The sun was setting ahead of him, casting an orange glow over the ocean. He could see the silhouettes of other surfers dangling momentarily in the waves as they swept into shore
A few more strokes had him out back where the waves rolled rather than crashed. He sat up on his board and then looked down the line. There were other surfers dotted here and there; no one he recognised but then that wasn't that unusual anymore; so many people surfed these days it was no longer the preserve of the drop outs. He looked out to sea and watched for a few moments, waiting for the ideal set to form. His vigilance paid off after a few minutes as a set of waves, potentially double overhead loomed on the horizon. He slid back onto his belly and began to paddle back to shore, building up speed so that his would match that of the wave as it hit him. He felt himself rise as the first wave of the set caught the back of the board. After that it was all instinct, a few more strokes and then he was standing, skimming down the face of the green wave, running parallel to the shore. There was nothing except this moment; no work, no cases, no bad memories, just this moment, perfect in everyway. The board rumbled gently beneath this feet as he sped long. Then, all too soon, it was over; if he stayed with the wave he would end up back on the sand so with a twist of his shoulders he dived off the board and into the wave. As he surfaced he shook his head to clear the salt water from his eyes and ears, then he gathered in his leash, pulling his board towards him as he did so. In one fluid movement he was back on the board with his body in line with the stringer, arms dangling over the rails and an enormous grin on his face as he paddled back out to sea. Work and the world could wait.