Chapter 10: Krakow, Auschwitz and John Paul II
On the Saturday following their day trip to Munich, the two families were once again on a train towards that city. They were headed for the airport for the short flight to Krakow, where they would be spending the second week of their visit to Europe. Rich was looking forward to the second week of the 'holiday' with mixed feelings as he knew that Angela and her parents were going to visit several Catholic shrines and pilgrimage destinations while in Krakow. He also realised Angela would anticipate that he would join her if their new relationship was going to mean anything. During the flight, Rich brought the subject of 'pilgrimage" destinations with Angela.
"When we're in Krakow," ventured Rich, "Will you be expecting me to visit some of the Catholic places in and around that city with you?"
"I'm not going to insist that you do," said Angela, "But it would be so lovely if you did. You may not realise it, but even Auschwitz was the site of a saint's martyrdom."
"Oh?" queried Rich,"Who was that?"
"Maximilian Kolbe was an inmate at Auschwitz-Berkenau." said Angela, "He was a Franciscan friar. In 1941, he substituted himself for another prisoner to save the other man's life. He was declared a saint in 1982."
"Okay, I'll come along, as long as My parents don't mind." said Rich, "I'll approach the spiritual places with an open mind."
"That's settled then." said Angela, "That makes me happy. So you're okay about visiting Saint Faustina's convent on Monday morning. I do know dad's going to book a tour of Nowa Huta in the afternoon for all of us."
"What's Nowa Huta?" asked Rich.
"It's a 'model' communist style housing estate on the outskirts of Krakow." said Angela, "Dad tells me that if it is still running, we'll be taken there in a minibus built in Poland when it was still behind the Iron Curtain. There's also a rather interesting Catholic Church there, which represents a ship."
"How did that get to be built under Communist rule?" asked Rich, "I thought the Communists were atheists."
"I suppose sheer dogged determination." said Angela, "There were also some quite violent riots in Nowa Huta, protesting against the ban on building a church. The church itself is called 'The Lord's Ark'. The ship it represents, of course, is Noah's ark."
"How do know all this?" asked Rich.
"Dad told me when he was 'selling' me the idea of visiting a Communist housing estate." said Angela, "It sounds an interesting building."
"I think you've sold me on the idea now." said Rich, "One of my 'visual' interests is church architecture."
"It's one of mine as well." said Angela, "Judging from what I've seen on the internet, you'll also like the Basilica of the Divine Mercy, that houses St Faustina's remains."
This conversation continued for most of the rest of the flight. Rich and Angela spent the time learning even more about each other's interests. Once they had touched down at Krakow Airport, they lost no time getting themselves through the landing formalities and finding a taxi to their hotel. By the time they had checked in, located their rooms and made themselves comfortable, it was nearly time for dinner. They strolled into the city centre and were guided to a reasonably priced restaurant by Anton. On the way there they checked the Mass times at the main Catholic Church in the city centre, St Mary's Basilica. All the Masses there were in Polish, with the exception of the ten o'clock, which was in Latin. Angela asked whether any Krakow church held a mass in English.
"There is a church near Wawel Castle which used to hold an English Mass at ten thirty," said Anton, "But going there would defeat the object of attending a Mass at St Mary's, which is to see the interior of the building - without having to pay an entrance fee for the privilege. I guess most of us have had a smattering of Latin."
"I can understand most of the sung parts of the Mass from my interest in classical choral music." said Rich, "I also studied Latin to GCSE level at the school I was at before Roundview, so I might be able to understand some of it."
"Before about 1972, the Mass was in Latin all over the world." said Anton, "Once you got to know the order, you could understand what was going on wherever on the globe you were."
"You seem quite happy about fitting in with our spiritual activities in around this city." said Angela.
"I am!" said Rich, "I think I'm going to be learning about more than twentieth century European history on this trip. Wasn't a recent Pope born somewhere near here?"
"Yes," said Angela, "Karol Wojtyla was born and spent his childhood in Wadowice long before he became Pope John Paul II. We're planning to go there on Wednesday. Would you like to come?"
"Of course I would," said Rich, "It should be quite an instructional trip. I think my parents, Kevin and Anita would probably like to come as well."
"Yes, we would." said Kevin, "Hopefully, it will raise our moods after spending the first part of Tuesday touring Nazi death camps. It will be a relief to come closer to God after our visit to Hell."
"That's settled then." said Anton, "After tomorrow's Mass, I'll find a booking agent and we can plan out the rest of the week. Monday morning and Tuesday are taken care of. We've just planned Wednesday. Would you like to join us on the trip to the Black Madonna shrine at Częstochowa? We're thinking of going there on Friday. It's another whole day trip. We can spend Thursday in and around central Krakow and explore Wawel Castle and the Jewish quarter. I believe there's a guided tour of that."
"Yes, we'd love to." said Kevin, "Provided the agent has spaces on those excursions, that's the week sorted."
The next day, which was Sunday, all six travellers made their way to St Mary's Basilica in Krakow's central square after a leisurely breakfast, and attended the Latin Mass. After this, Anton located the booking agent and arranged not only the tours to Wadowice and Częstochowa, but also the following afternoon's trip to Nowa Huta. By the time this had been done, it was nearly lunchtime. The choice of restaurant for lunch was left to Anton as he had been to Krakow before and knew a few good places to eat. After a satisfying lunch, once they had found a booking agent and sorted the week's excursions, the group spent the rest of the day strolling around the centre of the city, browsing shop windows and enjoying the atmosphere of the city.
The next morning, as they had already decided, they visited the convent where Sister Faustina spent some of her last days before contracting tuberculosis and ending her earthly life in a sanatorium. They then made their way to the Basilica of the Divine Mercy, where her remains were buried. As expected, Rich was impressed by the unusual architecture of the basilica. He took the opportunity to send another postcard to Alo, this time from Krakow. It carried another slightly cryptic message about his new relationship with Angela. After this mini pilgrimage and a quick lunch, the met the rep from 'Communist Tours' with his bright red Nisa people carrier. On the way there, the guide outlined the history of Nowa Huta and the 'need' for the Communist regime to build a Soviet style housing development in Southern Poland. This was long before the uprising by Lech Walesa and his shipyard workers in Gdansk. It reminded Angela about a small opera by Shostakovich called Cheryomushki, about a new, probably similar, housing estate in Moscow. The general opinion was that it was well laid out and designed, but somewhat soulless. After this, they visited the church at Nowa Huta. It has been designated 'The Church of the Lord's Ark', and, against the wishes of the authorities, was built brick by brick by the inhabitants of Nowa Huta. As Angela had mentioned, it was designed to represent Noah's Ark. Rich was impressed by its design and would go down in his mental catalogue of unusual churches. It would go with Liverpool and Clifton Catholic cathedrals, neither of which is exactly conventional. He had already made a mental note of the Basilica of Divine Mercy where, as already mentioned, Saint Faustina's mortal remains were laid to rest. After all the walking around various parts of Krakow on Monday, they were relieved that there would be three longish coach journeys the Next day during which they could relax in comfortable seats.
Tuesday dawned bright, sunny and warm, somewhat in contrast to the emotional atmosphere of the places the group were to visit. After an early breakfast they assembled in the hotel foyer to await their transport. After calling at a couple of other hotels, they were, at last, under way towards the village of Oświęcim, where the former death camp was situated. At one of the road junctions on the way there, Rich noticed a direction sign which indicated that Oświęcim was one way and Wadowice the other.
"One way to Heaven, the other to Hell on Earth." observed Rich.
"What prompted that remark?" asked Angela.
"That last sign said it was one way to where we're going, the other to Pope John Paul II's birthplace." said Rich, "Didn't you mention that Karol Wojtyla was born in Wadowice?"
"I did." said Angela, "Well remembered! We're going there tomorrow. It should be an interesting, and hopefully inspiring, day."
In due course, the coach arrived in Oświęcim, and was driven to the camp known as Auschwitz I. This was the first Auschwitz camp and is still largely intact. The whole coach party was shown round the various buildings and their original purpose was explained. Particularly affecting was the building containing thousands of shoes and other items belonging to people who had been exterminated when the camp was in use. Their final call at this camp was to the crematorium, where the remains of the victims were burned. Some time was spent in the museum before everyone boarded the coach for the short drive to Auschwitz II (Auschwitz-Berkenau).
This camp was very different from the original Auschwitz. For a start, very few of the huts were still standing. Running right into the site was a railway line, which was used to bring the, mainly Jewish, prisoners in goods wagons to the camp. Once they were through the entrance to the camp, they were shown round the guard house before being guided along the one kilometre long railway platform. About half way along this platform, there was one of the railway wagons used to transport prisoners from all parts of Europe to Auschwitz. They stood around this wagon while the logistics of transporting the very large number of people to this location were explained. As they made their way further down the platform, the guide explained what happened when the arrival of the Russians was imminent at the end of the Second World War. They were shown the hastily demolished crematoria at the end of the railway line and the ponds where the ashes were dumped. The guide went on to say that 1.1 million people were executed at Auschwitz, one million of them being Jewish men, women and children. All the while the history and purpose of the camp was being explained, Angela's disposition was visibly changing. She had stopped smiling. By the time they reached the ash ponds, she was reaching for a tissue and wiping tears away. Rich noticed and gave her a reassuring cuddle.
"If it's any reassurance, I know how you feel." said Rich, "I know I'm a boy, and therefore emotionally 'thick', but I feel the same way. Those million Jews were human beings, just like you and me, with their own lives, hopes, ambitions and dreams, not just vermin to be eliminated at the whim of a mad dictator."
"I - I'm sorry. I just let the atmosphere of this place get to me." said Angela, still a bit tearful, "To think of all those people just snuffed out and burned, and we almost walked on their ashes."
"Our feelings are nothing to be ashamed of." said Rich, "And I think it's at least part of the reason our folks brought us here. It's an important, but dark part of European history and does really demonstrate man's inhumanity to man in a very emotionally affecting way."
"I'm starting to believe that there's even more to you than I realised." said Angela, "This is a new side to you. You seem to be in tune with my feelings. This doesn't seem to the most appropriate venue to admit it, but I think I'm actually beginning to fall in love with you."
The coach party returned towards the entrance to the camp, where they were shown the interior of one of the surviving huts. Most of the others just consisted of the concrete bases and the brick chimneys. After this, they returned to the coach for the drive to the salt mine at Wieliczka. All were silent for some considerable time. For nearly all the journey, Rich held Angela's hand to reassure her.
"I think we all need cheering up after that." said Anton, "It looks as if both my Angela and your Richard were deeply touched by that experience. It's something they're not going to forget in a hurry. After our visit to the salt mine, we'll find dinner. I'm sure we'll be hungry by then. After that, I'll take you all to an Irish pub I know in the city centre."
"That's a perfect idea." said Kevin, "You do seem to know your way round Krakow."
"That's because I was based here for six months last year." said Anton, "While we're in the Irish pub, we can plan what we're going to do on Thursday. I'm quite sure you've all heard of Oscar Schindler."
As they made this decision, the coach had arrived at the Wieliczka salt mine. After a brief lunch, they spent the next couple of hours touring the mine, which has become a major tourist attraction. The beauty of the salt sculptures and the majesty of the underground chambers, especially the chapel did serve to dispel some of the gloom engendered by their Auschwitz visit.
"Well," said Kevin, as they emerged from the salt mine, "I think that's begun to put us back on an emotional even keel after the morning's activities. How are you two young ones feeling now? You were both looking rather gloomy earlier."
"We're a lot brighter now, thank you." said Angela, "I feel able to smile again. That salt mine was nothing like I had imagined."
The group boarded the coach back to Krakow feeling at least neutral. Dinner was the primary thought, as all of them were beginning to feel hungry. As was becoming customary, Anton came up trumps with a satisfying, and inexpensive, restaurant. Thus fortified, they made their way to the Irish pub Anton had recommended. It didn't disappoint. On this occasion, unusually, there was a ceilidh band performing, so they were serenaded by traditional Irish music for most of the evening. As already decided, they planned their Thursday activities over drinks at the pub. Before their visit to the castle, they would arrange for the guided tour of the Jewish quarter and Oscar Schindler's factory. By the time they were ready to leave, their mood was relatively light hearted. In short, the combination of cheerful Irish music and some alcohol had gone some way to evaporate their earlier morbid feelings. They returned to their hotel very tired after an eventful and thought provoking day.
The next morning, again dawned bright, sunny and warm. They were to visit the birthplace of Karol Wojtyla, the Polish priest, who was to become Pope John Paul II. On the way back, they were to visit Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, the monastery where Karol Wojtyla spent many hours in prayer as a young cleric. As on the previous day, after breakfast, they waited for their transport, but with less apprehension than they had experienced on Tuesday. On the journey there, the guide pointed out some of the places of interest along the way. However, most of the journey was carried out in comparative silence.
"What are we expecting to see on this trip?" asked Kevin.
"We're going to visit several places in Wadowice that were associated with Karol Wojtyla," said Anton, "Including his parish church and his home. That house, right by the church is now a museum devoted to the life of Pope John Paul II."
"Will we be expected to hear a mass?" asked Kevin.
"Probably not in Wadowice," said Anton, "But last time I was on this trip, there were two happening at Kalwaria. You're welcome to sit in if you wish. However, I don't think there are any mid-afternoon masses at this time of the year."
"You're very quiet." said Angela, "You haven't said a word since we left Krakow."
"I suppose I am." said Rich, "I was thinking."
"What about?" asked Angela.
"I was thinking about our meeting next Monday with Gavin and Grace," said Rich, "And, I suppose, praying for a positive outcome. I just don't want anyone to be hurt, physically or emotionally. I think Alo and Mini will be joining us to keep the peace if the meeting does go pear shaped."
"I guess that depends on how well Gavin has been getting on with Grace." said Angela, "If, by the time we return, they are in a stable relationship, there should be no problem, because I'm really beginning to look on us two as a couple. It all depends on Gavin's temperament. If it's any reassurance to you, I don't think you've got anything to be worried about, so chill out, and don't fret."
Some time after passing the 'Heaven and Hell' road sign Rich had observed on Tuesday, they reached Wadowice. Once they had left the coach, they were escorted to the main square in front of the church, the Basilica of the Virgin Mary. Since the building was a place of worship, the places and statues within were explained before the party entered. After viewing the church interior, in reverent silence, the party assembled outside. The guide pointed out the sundial on the side of the building, which was right outside Karol Wojtyla's bedroom window when he lived here. The party was then ushered to the entrance to what was now the Pope John Paul II museum and issued with tickets. They were split into three smaller groups, each of which circulated round the museum with a local guide. When they were in Karol Wojtyla's bedroom, the local guide pointed out the motto above the sundial on the side of the church. It read: 'CZAS UCIEKA WIECZNOŚĆ CZEKA', which when translated means 'Time flies. Eternity awaits'.
Following their visit to the museum, the entire group were taken to a café in the centre of Wadowice for a light lunch, after which they boarded the coach for the drive to Kalwaria. The prominence given to the Virgin Mary in the church, and also Monday's visit to the Basilica of Divine Mercy prompted Rich to ask a question which had been bugging him for some time.
"I can understand you praying to Jesus or directly to God the Father," said Rich, "But why do you pray to the Virgin Mary? I believe some Protestants call it 'Mariolatry'."
"That's quite a controversial one with a relatively simple answer." said Angela, "We pray directly to God the Father or God the Son, but we pray to Our Lady for her to intercede for us, that is to pray for us on our behalf. The same applies to prayers directed to the Saints. Have you ever actually considered the words of the 'Hail Mary'? You probably know it, from your knowledge of classical music, as 'Ave Maria'."
"I can't say that I have." said Rich, "I do know the words, but I've never thought deeply about them."
"The first part of the prayer is taken directly from the Gospel accounts of the Archangel Gabriel's appearance to Mary and her subsequent visit to her cousin Elizabeth." said Angela, "The second part of the prayer asks Our Lady to 'pray for us sinners to the Lord, our God'."
"That explanation does make a lot of sense." said Rich, "I suppose it's a bit like asking a mother to talk to her son about some tricky subject."
"That's exactly it." said Angela, "Except that in this case, the son is God's only begotten son, Jesus Christ, part of the Holy Trinity. You seem to have grasped quite an important facet of Catholic doctrine."
This conversation continued, covering various subjects, until the coach reached Kalwaria. Once everyone was off the coach, they were guided to the basilica and the part this place held in Karol Wojtyla's early clerical life was explained. They were then shown round the site. Although it had been a physically exhausting day, everyone felt spiritually uplifted by what they had seen and heard. After being dropped off at their hotel, Rich, Angela and their parents enjoyed a short rest before returning to the centre of Krakow for dinner. Rich was beginning to feel confident about Angela's feelings towards him. As a result, he felt an inward serenity that he had never felt before, not even with Grace. It could have been that the spirituality of the place had affected him at a very deep level.
It was starting to occur to him that, despite her verbally aggressive attack when they first met, his future might lay with his 'Angel of Death', Angela De'Ath. He was now seriously hoping that Grace had found a new happiness with Gavin, and that Gavin's temperament had become calmer. He slept peacefully that night.