Chapter 10: Sushi, Maori and the Garden Isle
"Arigatou gozaimasu," Rory says with a bow, thanking the Japanese flight attendant as she passes on the way into the Haneda Airport International Terminal.
Jostling through the crowds inside, she thinks, All these foreigners. Then she realizes that she's the foreigner. When Rory travels Europe she blends in, but in Japan she might as well have a giant spotlight following her around. It's a new and awkward experience that she embraces, choosing this unexpected excursion to force herself out of a comfortable travel mode.
Not only is she standing out but she's standing out alone – no mom, no grandma, no Jess, no memories to call to mind. Somehow this empowers her, and she feels greater independence than she ever has before.
Rory still feels the sting of not getting to Asia earlier because Logan's new job had him working in London. Part of her feels ashamed that in college she was so dependent on him for her travel experiences.
Thanks to the intense and detailed research she did on Tokyo back then, she recalls a unique restaurant to check out on the fifth floor of the International Terminal: Planetarium Starry Café – the first planetarium built inside an airport.
When she slips into the darkened café it takes several seconds for her eyes to adjust to the difference in lighting. Small tables are huddled around a projection machine that shoots images of constellations and countless stars to the ceiling, creating the sensation of looking up at a gorgeous star-filled sky without interference from man-made lights. A small lamp sits atop each table so that the travelers' food can find its way from the plate to their mouth.
Much of the food looks familiar to her, and she ends up with a hotdog and a slice of chocolate cake, telling herself that she's here for the experience and not for the cuisine.
Her celestial euphoria lasts almost two hours before she makes one last stop inside the airport.
On the same floor she visits Japan's POP Town, which houses a Hello Kitty type of Heaven. Smiling as she recalls the Asia-themed party her mom held for her after the trip plans with Logan fell through, she buys a few small souvenirs for her mom.
Over the next week Rory takes in the sites of the Shinto Meiji Jingu Shrine, Ueno Park and its multiple museums, as well as the Tokyo Imperial Palace and its peaceful gardens.
On her last night in Japan Rory visits the LUXIS Aqua Restaurant and Bar. Each marble circled table is surrounded by four copper-colored plush chairs. An enormous fish tank that takes up one full wall of LUXIS is home to tropical fish, sharks and sea turtles.
She notices that in this romantic and dim-lit atmosphere everyone seems to be on dates in their sparkling dresses and pressed suits. Between the sea water and the pairings, Rory wonders if she's stepped onto Noah's Ark.
A Japanese waiter in his twenties greets her in flawless English, probably guessing it's his best option for communication. Rory tries out her Japanese by using the evening greeting Konbanwa. But since most of the menu items are of high-class Italian cuisine she thinks maybe an Italian greeting would have been appropriate.
His Konbanwa in return feels like a polite pity response. "My name is Kohaku," he says, pointing to the tag written in English that's pinned to his black buttoned-up shirt. "It means 'fish' so you better watch out – I'm a slippery one," he finishes with a wink.
Rory musters up a faint smile in reaction to his pathetic attempt at flirting. If his name does mean "fish" then maybe every employee is required to have an aquatic name.
Kohaku's redeeming quality is that he does have great food recommendations. The cabbage pepperoncini's subtle anchovy flavor gives her enough taste of seafood without being overpowering, which is how she felt eating at a sushi train restaurant earlier this week.
At the end of the meal Kohaku hands Rory the bill, complete with a drawn wink smiley and his phone number. She must have "Desperate and Alone" written on her forehead in Japanese Kana characters.
Before leaving the restaurant she snaps a few photos.
These are for you, Stars Hollow.
Her travel blog is more successful than she first anticipated – at least in a small Connecticut town. Rory had only shared her blog with Lorelai and Lane, but Babette had peeked over Lorelai's shoulder while she was checking it on her phone and proceeded to share the news of the blog's existence with the rest of the town.
Her site is now a town-wide sensation; Kirk is even making money off of it by printing her posts and photos and compiling them into book form, selling them as her distributor. He was nice enough to ask Rory is she'd like to be cut in on the profit. She was tempted to make him stop all together but figured it wouldn't hurt to have someone bringing in a little money for her, as she is failing miserably at it herself.
Soon she'll be giving the town another exotic location to gawk over. Tomorrow Rory sets off for the home of the indigenous Maori people: New Zealand.
Over the phone Lane promises, "I'm meeting you there."
"Yeah sure, Lane."
"Check your Inbox. I sent you a copy of my flight itinerary."
Rory taps into her e-mail and can't believe that Lane is serious.
"How is this possible?" Rory asks.
"Zack got an advance on an upcoming two-week tour and my mom is watching the boys."
"You're going to let Mrs. Kim watch them for two whole weeks?" Rory inquires.
"I figure if she ships them off to Korea it'll be a much shorter distance from New Zealand to pick them up. Besides, Brian is being paid royally in Doritos to spy for us." Lane adds, "So get some sleep, and I'll see you soon."
In the Land of the Long White Cloud, the childhood friends are reunited, catching up on their lives as they travel along the scenic countryside highways. Lane knows about the proposal and the breakup but Rory isn't ready to talk about it yet, saying she doesn't want to taint their time together.
The two explore North Island and take the 35-minute ferry ride to Waiheke Island, known for its art scene, wine and vineyards. On the South Island they travel to Fiordland National Park to experience the majesty of Milford Sound and its bordering waterfalls, cliffs and rainforest.
After fighting the crowds of Tokyo, spacious and nature-filled New Zealand is a welcomed change for Rory.
They visit the Orokonui Ecosanctuary and observe several native species of birds in their natural habitat. Less than a half hour south, they travel to Dunedin on their way to the Otago Peninsula and stop at a convenience store to pick up postcards for Luke and Lorelai, Richard and Emily, Zack, Brian and Mrs. Kim.
Rory freezes near the front door.
"What's wrong?" Lane asks, watching her friend gape at a magazine on the rack.
Lane's eyes follow Rory's to the photo of Jess and Kandy at the L.A. Premiere. Kandy is planting a deep kiss on his cheek and Jess is smiling widely in return.
"It doesn't mean anything," Lane says. "Celebrity photos aren't always what they seem."
"I know," Rory mumbles.
They snatch up a few postcards and escape the store and the haunting image as soon as possible, driving toward the Otago Peninsula. Here they walk around and spot the Hoiho or Yellow-Eyed Penguin waddling across the sand. Rory and Lane find flat large rocks near the beach to continue watching the penguins. The water sparkles under the warm New Zealand sun, and the regal view encapsulates mountains on either side. They hear a rushing waterfall just out of sight, around a cliff.
"So are you ready to talk about what happened with Jess?" Lane asks. "We're leaving tomorrow, and I need to know."
Rory gives a response similar to the one she gave Lorelai. "It's just that my life is so crazy, and I don't know where my career is headed, and I need to –"
"Rory," Lane interrupts her friend's prattling and says in a firm tone, "do you remember what you said to me when I freaked out about not being ready to be a mom? You told me that I could do it. You said that moms aren't perfect and that they don't have everything in order. Well, you know what? Married people aren't perfect either, and you don't have to be perfect and have everything in order to be with the person you love. Ask yourself if you'd rather work things out with him in your life or without him."
Rory allows herself to be honest and open. The more she mulls over Lane's question the worse she feels. She thinks about how her insecurity pushed Jess away. Lane is right. Marriage isn't about two individuals becoming perfect before they can be together; it's about working through the good and the bad side by side, just as her mom and Luke do.
She covers her eyes, trying to shield herself from the shame. "I really messed things up."
Lane places a hand on Rory's shoulder. "I'm sure he'd take you back in a heartbeat. You'll see."
Standing in the Queenstown Airport on the South Island, Rory and Lane hug goodbye.
"Can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip," Lane says with excitement.
"Tell Zack and the boys hi for me."
Her trip around the world includes one more stop – this one in the United States.
From Queenstown, New Zealand, Rory's almost full day of flying consists of layovers in Sydney, Australia, and Honolulu, Hawaii. She lands at her final destination of Lihue, Hawaii, on the Island of Kauai, the oldest and fourth largest of the main Hawaiian islands. She chose this island based on its natural beauty and the fact that less travelers visit here than they do Oahu, Mauai or the Big Island.
Refusing to give up on her writing, Rory considers that maybe visiting a location fewer people are familiar with will help spark creative articles and capture the attention of editors.
A colorful sign hangs above the exit of the Lihue Airport – between images of a plant and the island is a rainbow behind the words: Welcome to Kauai, the Garden Island.
Walking beneath it she steps out of the airport and is greeted by the warm Hawaiian air. A soft trade wind makes the palm trees dance near the beach. The Pacific Ocean is within view, and she hears waves crash onto the shore.
Rory halts as she detects a familiar face staring at her from across the street.
It can't be him.
She blinks a few times to focus. A young man in khaki shorts and a navy blue T-shirt leans against a nearby palm tree with his arms folded.
He grins, and Rory realizes it's Jess.