Chapter 20: A Stranger Mirrored Back
The noble members of Shirazaki's court were notorious for being fashionable in all things. Within the city proper, one of the greatest revenues could be found in tailoring because there was always demand for the latest sokutai, jūnihitoe, and kimono in fashion. It'd been somewhat of a scandal that the high princess had known less about fashion than most courtiers, some had even used it as another point of criticism. Before coming to Nohr an entirely new set of kimonos had been sewn for Hinoka as part of her dowry, made with only the brightest of dyes and finest of silks. However, with how often she went riding, her tenma uniforms had become Hinoka's everyday outfit. Though she'd wouldn't admit it aloud, the comfort of it she'd be hard pressed to go without. Yet it seemed that day was perhaps at hand— as the Hoshidonese princess currently stood in the shop of Vindam's premier dressmaker, Seamstress Fontleroy.
It'd almost been like a performance, watching the seamstress dart between stacked bolts of fabric— cotton, linen, muslin, and other western textiles —and miscellaneous threads and lace within the myriad of shelves. The wooden shelving had allowed her to pull each type of fabric from its roll for interested customers without need for assistance. When they'd first arrived Fontleroy had been eager to show the Hoshidonese princess the cloth from such a roll. She'd touched the offering, a black brocade that was thick and soft, with a weave clearly displaying the crest of Nohr's royal house. It'd felt so very different from the embroidered silk of home, yet just as beautiful and luxurious.
Still, she hadn't allowed them to tarry with browsing. Since Hinoka wasn't there for herself, but rather so that Flora and Felicia could be outfitted appropriately— one of the stipulations set by Queen Ektrina. After the queen's letter had granted permission, Hinoka had wasted no time in taking the Freezians as her ladies-in-waiting, signing the necessary documentation that very morning and having retrieved the sisters from the Northern Citadel before the midday meal. As her acting ladies, they had permission to travel alongside her. Yet, another caveat had been that they could only journey out into Vindam if a Nohrian royal retainer accompanied them— which was why Marx's butler currently stood within the shop countering the seamstress' every choice with a suggestion of his own.
"Rather than black velvet and lace, gowns of blue satin and white taffeta would suit these ladies when high court comes." Fontleroy said, one of her assistance scribbling notes in what looked to be a miniature book bond of Nohrian style. "With diamonds set in silver for the matching accessories."
"Make the gems moonstones, if custom jewelry must be ordered," Joker rebutted, throwing a disapproving glance at the middle-aged woman.
The seamstress gave a theatrical sigh. "Good sir, where's your sense of artistry? These ladies shall be making their debut in court this coming winter at Princess Hinoka's side. The Crown Prince's newlywed wife is the talk of the capitol, and all the highborn will attempt to outdo Her Highness and her entourage. As the royal tailor, it's my job to make it obvious such a thing is quite impossible." She shook her head, perfectly coiffed ringlets following the motion. "It must be diamonds."
Hinoka's tutors had mentioned in the past that all her lessons were in preparation for Nohr's winter gathering, the high court.
Nohr was the largest kingdom in the west. History attested that this had happened through its rulers conquering the surrounding lands, unoccupied or otherwise. Even the natural boundary of the Chasm hadn't stopped Nohr from attempting to expand east— that was the entire reason Hoshido existed as a unified kingdom today. Before it'd been small, separate holdings that'd occasional fought yet coexisted not engaged in much more. With the outside threat of Nohr, it'd forced them to band together when their initial efforts to repel the invaders had fail. Only after they'd sworn fealty to the Dawn Dragon's high-priest, Hotoke, under his leadership had the Nohrian forces been successfully repelled.
Apparently following this, Nohr had taken such losses and expended so many resources that a majority of the army's commanders had refused to marshal any further forces. Their refusal had led to a civil war, but after the warmongering Queen Zegdrifa had been deposed and Queen Anya III was crowned had focus shifted from expansion to internal infrastructure. The high houses had been established then: splitting up the kingdom's sizable land into formal territories for governance. The high court had also been enacted, a time every winter where these vassals would gather before the ruler and be able to air any grievances or make requests.
In the centuries between then and now, it seemed this gathering had changed. It'd become an excuse for the highborn to display their own wealth and power while catering to the latest intrigue. High court was still seasons away from happening and already Hinoka was dreading it.
All the while during the seamstress and butler's conversation, Felicia had stood on a wide, flat stool that was placed before multiple wall-length mirrors with a nervous smile plastered onto her face. The shop assistants continued to circle her, taking measurements of her height, waist, bust, and hips along with the span of her feet and hands. Her sister, Flora, had been in that same place some moments ago— before a different set of assistants and whisked her behind a changing screen. Watching the tedious process made the Hoshidonese princess glad that she needn't stand there next.
Beside where Hinoka was seated, doing her best not to fidget, Asama muttered under his breath. "People starve in this city and they argue over gemstones?"
"…it's not so bad," Setsuna abrupted chimed in. "Mother once commissioned a robe made with twenty-four layers all of different silk patterns… silly because she ended up not being able to move in it."
Asama scoffed and began to argue this wasn't the same, before Hinoka shushed both of her retainers. Neither of them had ever enjoyed these sort of domestic outings, and the change in kingdom had evidently not improved their behavior. While she might not otherwise care, Hinoka knew their behavior could easily lead to gossip and couldn't miss the way Joker had glanced their way with a sharp look.
"Ex-excuse me…" Felicia hesitantly spoke up, her words barely heard over the voices of the seamstress and butler.
Yet almost immediately Fontleroy raised one finger; the assistants abruptly stopped and the shop fell quiet. Seemingly satisfied the woman then turned towards the Freezian and asked, "What is it, Lady Felicia?"
"Uaawah, just Felicia is fine," the pinkette twisted her fingers together, clearly flustered. "A-are you certain we need this many gowns? It's just... so many."
"Of course! You're now Nohrian ladies-in-waiting, to our future ruler no less." The seamstress guffawed loudly, hand coming up to cover her mouth with a ladylike motion. "With her dowry, the only woman richer than Princess Hinoka within Nohr is Queen Ektrina. So, there's no excuse to skimp."
Hinoka felt her brow rise at the blunt words. She'd never thought of her dowry in those terms, how wealthy it made her in the eyes of Nohrians. Naturally Hinoka had been sent with a dowry that fitted her position of high princess and that could provide for her should anything go awry, adhering to the old tradition. It was also a substitute for her inheritance, since royal women marrying out of the Byakuya family did not receive any from their parents.
Dowries were known to cause problems— at least in Hoshido. Some brides became harassed by their matrimonial family wanting to use the wealth, or demands being made that the bride's family pay even greater sums that what was originally negotiation. A couple years ago there'd been a scandal between merchant families: the Hiten and Senou families. Disputes over the dowry had been made in the lower courts and steadily escalated higher until the King himself had to hold a hearing and pass final judgement. While Hinoka hadn't been privy to all the details of the case, Orochi had told her of how Kagerou had infiltrated the Senou household in the guise of a maid and witnessed the Goten bride being physically struck by the Senou groom, repeatedly. Sumeragi had decreed the marriage dissolved and that the Senou had to pay reparations to the Hiten family. It was one of the few cases of divorce Hinoka was aware of, and the thought of anyone being harmed just for money both saddened and angered her.
Since coming to Nohr she'd hardly given her own dowry a spare thought. Other than the time she'd taken the pearls to Blanche, Marx had never inquired about what was to be done with any sum. Could that have been what Marx had been obliquely referring to when he'd told her the King Garon's advisor wanted Hoshido's wealth? If Hinoka's hunch was right, he'd even forbidden Iago from trying to manage it.
Oblivious to the Hoshidonese princess' racing thoughts, Fontleroy clapped her hands together. "Do not fret, I am also aware of how active an individual Her Highness is. Both you and Lady Flora are to be outfitted with proper uniforms before you leave today."
Her clap broke the spell on the assistants, who hurried back to their former activities. Rather than turning back to Joker the seamstress began spouting off another gown design to the assistant holding the book. The silver-haired man's eyes narrowed, but he'd apparently conceded that their former conversation had ended. For the best, as not long after the assistants from behind the changing screen emerged alongside Flora— whose attire was a shocking change.
Gone was the plain but modest gown she'd worn to the shop, and in its place a uniquely Nohrian ensemble. Although there were gaudy elements: gilded edges, clasps, and hanging ornaments. More shocking was the lack of cover: the center of her chest, midriff, and inner thighs were bared. Even within the actual cloth, large swathes of material were sheer enough to reveal what lay underneath. The rest of the clothing hugged her frame tightly, and even then, an assistant was actively sewing together a back seam while she moved in it. Overall it didn't lend much more modesty than smallclothes might.
Although it wasn't without its artistry. There was exquisite detail on trim that lines the hems. Fontleroy had undoubtedly contributed to the embroidery, the intricate designs were a craftsmanship to be admired. Flora's pale blue hair had been gathered up into tails on either side of her head with black ribbons, framing her face which was currently flushed bright pink. Although Hinoka hadn't known the young woman for long, it was plain that she was uncomfortable and embarrassed by this new outfit.
When they came to a stop Fontleroy clapped her hands again, this time with excitement. The Hoshidonese princess found herself at a loss for words. However, as Asama stifled a laugh, Setsuna tilted her head in confusion then asked, "…what's she wearing?"
Surprisingly, Joker answered. "Lady Flora is gifted with magical talent. Her Majesty made sure to grant her formal mage training, although she has yet to pass the official spell exam. This uniform was simply overdue, since technically she must wear this to be seen in public."
It all clicked with the butler's explanation: this was Nohr's mage uniform. During the first six months Camilla had lived in Shirazaki's palace, a retainer of her younger brother had remained— a Nohrian mage named Nyx. Because of her child-like appearance and stature, Hinoka had consistently grown upset over the revealing nature of her clothing. So much so, that her sister-in-law had eventually taken her aside and told her why Nyx dressed in that manner.
There was a law in Nohr that dark mages must not conceal weapons upon their person but instead carry them out in the open where the tomes could be inspected. It'd been decreed early in Nohr's history when it was discovered that the ruler, young and newly crowned, had been manipulated by a magical advisor through a hex that was kept concealed within his bulky robes. Once the controlling instrument had been destroyed the ruler returned to himself and passed ordinances to try and prevent such a thing from ever happening again. Though many speculated that he did so vengefully— wanting to also shame those magically capable of controlling others. Many addendums had been added throughout the subsequent years, such as mages upon mounts being able to wear fully covering armor and clothing— but the revealing uniform worn by foot-bound mages could all be traced back to that ancient event.
Camilla had gone onto explain that within Nohr's court there was a divide on opinion. Some believed that there was no need to change a working system, most of these had no connection to actual dark mages who lived within these laws. Others wanted change to come and drew attention to the matter in whatever legal ways they could. Her sister-in-law admitted that her own tendency toward low-cut, revealing clothing was a habit she adopted as an adolescent to protest the conditions that her mother lived under.
Like Hoshido, it seemed Nohr also had its inconvenient policies of bygone eras.
"Yes, yes, and Lady Flora has the added benefit of not worrying over catching cold even if she wasn't wearing a stitch." Fontleroy winked at the blue-haired Freezian, whose blushed only deepened. Then the seamstress looked to the twin and announced with a flourish, "Now, it's your turn to get all kitted up, Lady Felicia."
The pinkette squeaked and shook her head, but was quickly ushered off the stepstool and taken behind the changing screens by the industrious assistants. She wasn't the seamtress' only victim. The middle-aged woman rounded on the butler with a spin of her ringlets. "Lord Jakob could you take Lady Flora for a turn about the shop? Yohannes and Bekka will follow and check that she has a full range of movement in the uniform."
He frowned, clearly displeased by the request, possibly because it was beneath him or the identity of who'd made it. Flora looked so miserable standing there, being talked over, it'd be a mercy to quickly comply and get her out of that outfit as soon as possible. So Hinoka interceded, "Joker, please."
His expression immediately shifted into a polite smile. "At once, my lady." The silver-haired man maintained the expression as he offered his elbow, even as the one on the receiving end of the offer gained a pinched expression. Grey eyes glanced to Hinoka and she gave her best encouraging smile. Flora took Joker's arm, then they made their way around the shop's aisles full of fine fabrics with a couple assistants trailing after them.
Fontleroy said something in a whisper to the assistant next to her that'd been writing down notes, who handed the older woman the small book and then darted out of sight. The seamstress approached Hinoka with a smile, "All the measurements I've taken today have been as delightful as they've been inspiring. Yet as intriguing as your ladies are, Your Highness is truly a unique beauty in this kingdom. Should it be permitted I'd love to share possibilities for your attire."
Asama began to mutter about frivolity under his breath, so to spare the seamstress any of the priest's harsh words the Hoshidonese princess rose from her chair and met the older woman half-way. Fontleroy turned the book in her hands to reveal its interior pages, which were filled not only with script but also sketches of dress designs. One was all sharp angles, while another was rounded puffs, each page holding something different from the last yet all so very Nohrian in aesthetic. Hinoka had already worn one of Fontleroy's creations at the spring tournament— the green almost black gown. She'd found it relatively comfortable, despite how her arms, shoulders, and back had been exposed. Only the halter-cut bodice of it had survived the escape from the burning crime den, but its former glory remained in the onyx studwork.
After a decent amount of time examining the book where the Hoshidonese princess had made appropriate compliments and remarks, Fontleroy closed it and primly cleared her throat. "Princess Hinoka, this appointment was meant for your ladies, but… I'm afraid I couldn't help myself. We've had your measurements on hand since before the wedding, and we made an ensemble especially for you. It'd give me the greatest pleasure should you try it on here and now!"
Hinoka gave a placating smile and did her best to act demure. "As flattered as I am, I don't think you'd want me wearing such valuable clothes while I'm… flowering."
Her menses had come that morning with a fierce clawing at her belly, and she'd woken to find herself alone in Marx's bed. The blood-stained sheets had filled Hinoka with a sense of relief and longing. She hadn't known until that moment how part of her had held onto the thought that its absence meant she had been with child, but this was for the best. It meant her body had recovered from the poison, and that bearing children was still a possibility within her future.
Mozume had been a godsend, providing the Hoshidonese princess with a cloth belt so that she was fit to go out— although Nohrians padded with sheep's wool rather than moss. Her handmaid had then offered to fetch a drink for her discomfort, and after the fiasco of last week Hinoka had turned down black dragon root tea and asked for ginger instead. Again, displaying her ignorance as Krackenstein castle stocked none fresh as it was exclusively imported from Izumo. Thankfully, there'd been an Nohrian equivalent made with the local plant called sage which had helped soothe the pains.
The seamstress however was undeterred, instead determined look steeled her made-up face. "My lady, please do not underestimate me. I tailor for countless women in this city, and it would not do for appointments to be disrupted by our monthlies. I implore you to allow me to ply my craft."
After a few more halting attempts at deflection, the Hoshidonese princess gave into Fontleroy's relentless demands and allowed them to coax her onto the stepstool, then the assistants moved a different set of changing screens to surround her. Once she'd shed the outfit she'd worn for the day, the seamstress and her assistants helped to speedily undress Hinoka, even removing her sarashi. Yet they were good to the seamstress' word and left her lower smallclothes undisturbed, the padded linen of the cloth belt secured between her legs. They then redressed her in lacy Nohrian undergarments made of muslin thin enough that she had to suppress the urge to cross her arms as they slipped on gloves and stockings. Thankfully the next layer was a muslin slip of thicker weave that afforded her some modesty, before they moved the changing screens away, and fitted clothing completely unfamiliar onto her. It was called a corset, a structural undergarment from the high fashion of Markas. Fontleroy bragged this article had been made with wyvern boning as they snuggly fit the corset to her body. The laces at its back were pulled tight— this caused its rigid structure to cinch her waist further and pushed up her breasts in a way that wasn't precisely comfortable. Hinoka couldn't dwell on it long as more layers were added in a flurry of movement, and she was soon weighted down by the dress.
Hinoka felt her brow furrow as she stared down her reflection in the wall-length mirror. The gown was completely foreign to her in its design: puffed skirts, sheer fabrics, and an excess of ribbons. The shaping of the corset and the fullness of its skirts created an exaggerated curve along her hips. While her own scarf still covered her neck, the gown's neckline was so wide that her shoulders and collarbones were bare, and it dipped low enough that her cleavage created by the corset was put on display. So completely different from the elegant lines and comfortable modesty of a kimono.
Princess Camilla with her voluptuous curves and daring tastes would've perfectly fit this corseted gown, she was sure. Yet the longer Hinoka looked at herself, the more it felt like an imposter stared back. Although her hips were far from narrow, full of breast she was not and likely would never be— if those were the measures of Nohrian beauty, she was simply lacking. A thought that Marx might think so constricted her chest just as much as the corset.
The seamstress' reaction was quite different. Fontleroy clapped and immediately chattered of how well Markas's latest fashion trend suited her. The Hoshidonese princess didn't know what the previous trend had been, and was afraid to ask what part of the gown they'd squeezed her into was the current one.
"Your Highness, how does the gown feel?"
Wrong. "…it's a little tight around the middle."
"Well, we could loosen the stays as your frame is naturally petite. And I think it would be better if the bustle was altered…" The seamstress then went on a tangent, suggesting adjustments and alterations to be made.
Thankfully, the outer portions were removed and until the Hoshidonese Princess was left standing in the petticoats, corset, and smallclothes. Rather than immediately preforming the mentioned loosening, they pinned fabric and continued to talk among themselves. While she stood there, Hinoka allowed her mind to drift— wondering where Marx was in that moment and what he was doing.
A/N:
Fun history trivia, the dress Marilyn Monroe is famous for wearing in her "happy birthday, Mr. President" performance had to be sewn together at the back while she wore it. Since spandex and elastic hadn't been perfected by the 1960s. So every time I see skin-tight clothing in a period setting, I assume that's what has to happen... like with the Dark Mage outfits.
Speaking of which, the passage concerning Nohr's policy of mage uniforms may look familiar to long-time readers as it used to be in an earlier chapter. I moved it here for relevancy's sake.
Seamtress Fontleroy named in honor of a fellow fan who'd hoped the Treehouse would invoke Little Lord Fontleroy as Foleo's localized name (didn't happen).