#023
Names
Ekans (proper name)
Arbo (distinctive name)
Snake Pokémon (descriptor name)
Typing
Poison
Range
Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 23 in Kanto, along routes 32, 33, 37, and 42 in Johto, along route 212 in Sinnoh, and in the Olive Jungle of Fiore. Some vagrants have been observed falling out of trees throughout Johto, possibly due to pranksters. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Johto Safari Zone.
Habitat
Usually found in grassy fields, plains, and savannas.
Egg Groups
Ground, Dragon
Difficulty Ratings
Location Difficulty: 5. Only available in a few locations, but these are reasonably easy to get to, and fairly common in most of those areas.
Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Goes into a Poké Ball very easily, but has a nasty venomous bite that could give your Pokémon trouble.
Ownership Difficulty: 4. Not much of a problem except for its venom. This, of course, can be quite a problem indeed, but you should be able to handle things with some care.
Diet
Prefers eggs, both animal and Pokémon, and also small creatures; any dry food "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.
Physical Description
Snake, predominantly purple. Underbelly gold, as is thick band shortly below head. Varying number of yellow rattles on the end of tail, usually four or five. Several pairs of thin black bands along the length of the body. Yellow eyes with slit pupils. Ridge along head, stopping just short of nostrils. Even with mouth open, fangs typically not visible; large, non-forked tongue. Average size 6 feet 7 inches (2 meters). Cry: Low-pitched "Hhhhrrrrrss!"
Shiny coloration: Primary coloration avocado green.
Behavior
Typically lives alone. At nighttime, tries to find a tree to rest in, draping its body over branches; if none can be found, seeks a hole, pile of rocks, or similar cover to rest in. Flicks out tongue to sense possible prey and potential dangers. Slithers quietly to attack prey from behind, immobilizing them with venom. Also raids nests for eggs. Both prey and eggs are swallowed whole. When resting, curls on top of itself in a layered spiral pattern, providing a good vantage point and allowing it to easily open its mouth and shake its rattle in a defensive threat display. If that fails, fends off aggressors with Bite or Acid. Typically begins confrontations by opening its mouth wide, snapping its head forward and shaking its rattle, or quickly stretching itself out to its full length. In domestic situations, calm and unhurried.
Proper Care
Obviously, the first thing you should keep in mind when it comes to an Ekans is its venom. A bite isn't lethal to healthy adult humans, but they can make you feel very dizzy and light-headed, with extremities going numb; you may even faint. Should you be bitten, your first priority should be to prevent follow-up bites; once you've gotten yourself and the Ekans separated, you should immediately call for medical aid, and while waiting for it, follow the first aid tips outlined in the beginning of this book. You're at the greatest danger for being bitten while it first adjusts to living with you; it can be snappy and easily aggravated during this time, so you'll want to stay a fair distance away from it for a while. Prod it gently with a broom or similar if you need it to move. You'll know it has gotten relaxed and comfortable when it approaches you and curls around your feet. This will likely happen within just a couple of days. After this time, you can interact with it safely, even hugging and petting it, though if it begins to rattle, it's growing irritated and you should immediately stop whatever you're doing. An Ekans is not territorial, and will not harass visitors or other Pokémon if it sees you interacting with them in a friendly manner. You'll want to buy something like a coat-rack that it can climb up and drape itself over, if you don't have one already, and also some stuffed animals it can exercise its natural biting instinct on. When cleaning its teeth, be extra sure to wear thick gloves.
Notes
The venom glands of a newly-hatched Ekans haven't activated yet, so you're at no risk from a bite from a newborn. They activate roughly the first time it gets rid of a Shed Skin, which can also cure it of many afflictions.
The most powerful weapon an Ekans has is its mouth, capable of biting and holding on with a tight grip while it injects venom. It swallows prey whole, but not by unhinging its jaw, as popular belief holds; rather, the jawbones are very mobile and loosely attached, allowing for great stretching (this is true for all snakes, and is known as cranial kinesis).
An Ekans is not a Pokémon that a beginner should start with, or attempt to capture and raise right away. But once you've had some experience, one can make a fine addition to your household. Just don't tell it to "bite me."
Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office.
#024
Names
Arbok (proper name)
Arbok (distinctive name)
Cobra Pokémon (descriptor name)
Typing
Poison
Range
Native to Kanto. May be found in Cerulean Cave and along routes 3, 4, 22, 23, 26, 27, and 28 in Kanto, on Mt. Silver and along route 42 in Johto, and in the Sekra Mountain Range in Fiore. Populations migrate or are driven away with evolution or upon birth, explaining the range differences compared to Ekans. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Sinnoh Great Marsh (shipped from the Johto Safari Zone upon evolution).
Habitat
Usually found in grassy fields, plains, and savannas. Can subsist in swamps, marshes, and bogs.
Egg Groups
Ground, Dragon
Difficulty Ratings
Location Difficulty: 7. Appears in only a few locations, and rare in those. Thankfully, they are not too hard to reach, and a 12-foot snake is not the hardest thing to find.
Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Can provide a fight with potentially deadly consequences, but is still not the most dangerous by Pokémon standards. Very resistant to Poké Balls.
Ownership Difficulty: 7. Need a lot of space and careful handling. Inexperienced or foolish trainers risk death unless they owned it as an Ekans.
Diet
Prefers almost any animal or Pokémon smaller than it; any dry food "large carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.
Physical Description
Snake, predominantly violet. Large hood just under its head, kept flared. Large markings on hood mimicking a face; markings black save for "eyes," which are reddish-orange and yellow surrounded by black; some Kanto specimens have two black, wave-like patterns on the back of the hood. Thin black bands along the length of the body, averaging fifteen in number. White eyes with black irises, rather human like. Often displays four large fangs and forked tongue. Average size 11 feet 6 inches (3.5 meters). Cry: Low-pitched, loud "Hhhhrrrrrss!"
Shiny coloration: Primary coloration iridescent green-dull gold, reddish-orange portion of eye markings have become purplish-blue.
Behavior
Typically lives alone. When hunting, uses its face markings to terrify prey into staying still while it kills them, with Wrap or Acid Bomb; may also produce menacing sounds by expelling air. Should the victim attempt to flee, will pursue them until one or the other collapses from fatigue. Prey are swallowed whole. Typically begins confrontations by baring its fangs, flicking its tongue and swishing its tail, darting its head around, or lunging forward quickly. In domestic situations, investigative and protective.
Proper Care
Do not try to raise an Arbok from scratch without lots of experience with other Pokémon. If you do, you may die. A bite from one can inject enough venom to kill a healthy adult human, and their constrictions have enough power to crush an oil drum. If it decides to turn on you, you alone won't have much of a chance against it. You have to know how to properly discipline and coach a Pokémon without making it too angry, and that's knowledge best gained with less lethal species first. If you've raised it from an Ekans, the danger is severely reduced, but even an accidental bite could prove fatal, as could an overly affectionate embrace, unless you know how to dissuade it. An Arbok will be much more curious about visitors than an Ekans, and you'll want to warn any guests about your companion beforehand, as they tend to startle the unexpected. It will also need some space to slither around in; a small apartment probably won't be enough. If you let it go outside, I highly recommend you accompany it for its first sojourns until you're positive it knows not to attack anything. To reward it for good behavior, give it humanely killed animal carcasses to constrict and eat, or at the very least, empty water coolers or similar that it can squeeze harmlessly.
Notes
The face markings on an Arbok's hood can vary; certain patterns tend to correspond to certain regions, but this is not a perfect correlation. It uses these faces to Intimidate opponents, making them fight back rather weakly.
An Arbok's entire body is dangerous, from its sharp fangs to its powerful body to its brawny tail. If you find yourself in extreme danger, try to go for its nostrils or eyes to discourage it from attacking you; I should add, however, that this should be the absolute last resort, is extremely dangerous, and you should try your hardest never to find yourself in this situation in the first place.
This evolution family can be dangerous, and are definitely not for beginning trainers, but they can be as loving as any other species. A good friend of mine (who, unfortunately, has made a…rather regrettable career choice that I'm constantly trying to talk her out of) once had an Ekans, and the two of them were very affectionate toward each other, and this held true when it evolved. The two were forced to part ways, which completely devastated her for a time, and I know she still possesses strong hopes of being able to reunite with it soon.
Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office.
For Further Reading: Yes, It Had To Be Snakes! by Professor Samuel L. Jörmungandr