Note: soon, in chapter 16, Rhett reappears...
Charleston, February 21, 1876
"Well! Big brother, you seem very quiet this morning! "Melina was teasing Duncan at the breakfast table.
He had just spilled the sugar bowl on the embroidered tablecloth. He gave a grunt of annoyance.
Melina continued, amused at his nervousness. "Um... A little bit restless ? But very elegant, I must admit." Then, turning to Cathleen, "Isn't that right, Mother? " She looked at her with a knowing look.
Cathleen detailed her son's outfit with approval. He was wearing a light blue embroidered silk vest over his white shirt. The collar was fastened with a midnight blue bow tie, with small dots in the same shade as his vest. His navy blue jacket with fine stripes was fitted and highlighted his build.
"Yes! Your eyes look even bluer that way. "Cathleen looked at him with admiration.
"Thank you Mother. " He gave her a small smile. "I have to take the buggy today to go to the Mills. I hope you both have a good day."
Cathleen followed him down the hall. "Don't forget to take a scarf with your coat. It's chilly today. It's still only February. »
Duncan nodded. He was about to open the door when his mother noted what he was carrying in his arms. "Two blankets? »
The young man blushed slightly. "Yes, I have to give a client a tour of the Woolen mills. It's cold in the morning. It will be useful for her during this long trip. »
Before his mother could add a comment, he left.
A few minutes later, he knocked on the door of the Robillard House. Scarlett greeted him with a smile.
She was dressed in a dark green velvet dress, like the "Charleston green" he recognized. Embroidery adorned her sleeves and upper chest. Her scarf, that day, was trimmed with rosebuds. "The same red as your lips, Scarlett" Duncan thought. A black wool jacket marked her waist.
She elegantly held out her hand and he leaned in to place a light kiss on the back of it.
"Good morning Scarlett! I'm glad you agreed to let me be your guide. It's going to be a long day. »
"Good morning Duncan, you're on time! I'm ready to go. Let me get my coat on. »
"Maybe you should cover your shoulders with a big shawl, because it's going to be cold, especially in the country. "There was a hint of anxiety in his voice. Perhaps he shouldn't have suggested this trip in this weather.
Scarlett looked at her outfit. "Of course, you're right. Would you mind waiting a few moments while I look for it in my room? " With a wave of her hand, she preceded him into the parlor.
Duncan glanced down the hallway. "May I pay my respects to your aunts? »
The niece Robillard informed him that they had both gone to mass. Then she went upstairs.
Duncan looked around, searching for some trace of Scarlett's presence in his aunts' living room, an engraving, a painting. Frustrated, he found nothing. This was not the place to find out about the mysterious young woman.
He smelled her perfume before he turned around. She had a large woolen shawl in her hands.
Satisfied, he approached her. "Can I help you? " Without waiting for her answer, he unfolded the scarf to wrap it around her shoulders.
Scarlett enjoyed his warm hands around her. She detected a certain feverishness, and enjoyed it. How pleasant it was to resume the old seduction games of her carefree youth.
After he helped her put on her coat, she adjusted her hat in the hall mirror. Her eyes clouded at the thought of her excitement when she had first put it on, to Rhett's delight... When she had been selecting her clothes to go to Charleston, the old hat box had drawn her in. The green silk had been perfectly preserved. The pattern was probably a bit old-fashioned, but Scarlett felt it was worthy of being displayed again. So she had taken this fetish souvenir with her.
Duncan helped her into the buggy, whose top had been raised. Then he picked up one of the blankets on the seat.
"Will you allow me? "He asked her, while dutifully wrapping the woolen quilt around her back. Then he placed the other plaid on her lap.
Scarlett was amused by the attention. With a little laugh, she said: "You know, I'm not made of porcelain! And I've been used to driving my buggy for many years, in any weather. »
Duncan didn't back down. "It's an hour away and it's still winter. If I want to keep you as my dress ambassador in Atlanta, I better take care of you! "And he gave her a mocking look.
They laughed heartily, and began their journey. They were silent for a while. Scarlett enjoyed the comforting warmth of the woollens. Indeed, they were welcome because the air was crisp.
"This time, I'm going to take the lead in sharing the blanket with you. I need my driver to be healthy until we return. " Her intonation was mischievous. Then she spread some of the tartan on Duncan's lap.
A weak "thank you" was uttered. He pretended to be focused on driving the horse and gripped the reins tightly, lest she notice that his hands were shaking. Sharing the common warmth under that plaid, as their bodies brushed against each other on that narrow bench, was so intimate that his body was beginning to react dangerously.
His traveler put an end to the confusion that was invading him. "So you are the owner of the spinning mill we are going to visit. Fashion designer, running a textile company, that's not common! »
Duncan cleared his throat. Then he explained his motives for partnering with Jerry Harvey to modernize his mill. He explained his desire to source from a southern state, which Scarlett agreed with, since she herself was reluctant to buy from the old Yankee states, the low production of southern mills and the limited choice of high-end quality fabrics made in the United States of America. He told her that Vayton & Harvey Mills was now managing the entire production process, from cotton bale intake to fabric finishing. Scarlett was excited. This man, whom she had only just met, was now talking to her as an equal. Her work experience understood his demand for complete control over his supply. Discovering the world of the textile industry really interested her.
He explained to her that, within a year, he had succeeded in securing the loyalty of many of the tailors and dressmakers in the Southern States who wanted to buy fine fabrics.
The time passed so quickly that they were surprised to already have arrived at the mill. Jerry Harvey greeted them, then left it to his associate to show the Atlanta client around the plant.
Duncan was happy. Not only was the woman with him this morning breathtakingly beautiful, but she was also pragmatic in asking him questions about labor costs or production times. She was remarkably knowledgeable about labor laws. "What a seasoned businesswoman! It is easy to see that she is used to running a business. She is so different from the ladies of good Charleston society cast in the same mold of the decorative wife. »
Understanding that his listener was receptive to his explanations, he even ventured into the technical details of the various machines used to obtain textiles that could compete with French production.
When they reached the dye house, he showed her the indigo powder.
"My father bought large fields dedicated to indigo crops. Even though the use of American indigo is losing its influence, I wanted to keep this tradition alive to accentuate the authenticity of Vayton & Harvey textiles. In fact, that's why the color indigo blue has become the hallmark of "La Mode Duncan" designs this year. »
At the same time as he said this sentence, he looked into her green eyes. The indigo blue suddenly lost interest.
Then Scarlett admired the rolls of fabric, some more beautiful than others. Under the professional advice of the mill owner, she decided on quality textiles in attractive colors. No doubt the ladies of Atlanta would want to have them made into elegant garments.
She was surprised that she didn't have to negotiate the price because Duncan Vayton had given her the generous discount and payment terms traditionally reserved for his most important and loyal buyers.
"I am delighted to have visited your spinning facility. It was exciting."
The young industrialist accepted the compliment with pleasure.
"Now it's the sewn clothing supplier's turn. He is located three miles from here, in the next town. »
Scarlett was carried away by a whirlwind. And she enjoyed it immensely! When they arrived at Johnson Ready-to-Wear Ltd., the owner rolled out the "red carpet" for the famous designer. "He would almost do pirouettes," Scarlett laughed.
Duncan introduced her as one of his important clients. Scarlett understood his ploy to get Mr. Johnson to give the best price to this privileged partner. "Interesting. He can lie with ease - just like me! »
They entered the warehouses. Duncan watched in wonder as the practical businesswoman turned into a lighthearted coquette, twirling from dresses to skirts and petticoats, and from blouses to jackets.
"She looks like a little girl who doesn't know which present to open. "Duncan was strangely moved. She looked so fragile. He felt he was witnessing a rare moment when Scarlett O'Hara was naturally joyful, free of the weight of the experiences she had been through. And he had an overwhelming desire to know more about her life. For the moment, she had not given herself up, content to listen to him. He had not dared to question her out of discretion. He promised himself to know more at the end of the day.
The manager of Ready-to-Wear came to join them. Immediately, Scarlett regained her business-like posture. With efficiency, she pointed out different styles of clothes and asked about prices, stock turnover and delivery costs. Always with her charming smile but with a relentless negotiation skill.
Duncan was a mute witness to her unerring powers of persuasion. In no time at all, the poor tailor agreed to comply with the smiling demands of his new buyer, guaranteeing her, in addition, exclusive sales for Georgia!
"What a woman! " The young Vayton's admiration for this charming camelion grew even stronger.
On the way home, Scarlett was delighted with the morning, which promised to be a success for the launch of "The Boutique Robillard".
Duncan laughed heartily: "Poor Johnson never stood a chance of making a profit with a client like you. You're a great businesswoman, Scarlett! »
Her dimples deepened with pleasure. "I'm very heartened by your compliment, Duncan, especially coming from an entrepreneur like you. It's true that I've learned to fight in business! »
It did not take more for the dressmaker to finally dare to incite her to confidence. "May I ask you to tell me about your undertakings? As a woman, you certainly had to face a thousand torments to impose yourself. »
Scarlett was surprised by his comment. Finally a man who recognized her professional talents. Her gaze drifted away. Long ago, Rhett had said he appreciated this quality. But it was to better criticize it later.
Then she told him about her store, the difficulty of getting money by those who had contracted to pay on time, the shop's expansion. And then the purchase of her first sawmill, "her baby" she told him.
Duncan was surprised by this choice of business, a difficult line of work, and totally unusual for a woman. "That's what the only way to put my family out of the misery the Yankees had brought upon us by destroying our plantation. I was loaned the money to buy this decaying sawmill. I had to fight to sell my lumber to the builders. The competition was fierce. I employed means that you may find inelegant. »
Scarlett's voice became more hesitant. Her features had hardened.
Duncan looked at her, "I don't think I'll ever find fault with your actions. You were so brave to immerse yourself in the brutal world of the forest industry. »
Defiantly, she looked at him: "Really? A very close friend of mine was deeply shocked that I was using convicts as labor. I assume that now you will be less admiring, Mr. Vayton. "Her tone had become bitter. Why had she felt the need to confess what Ashley had always accused her of? Why did she want to shock him and compromise the image this man had of her? Perhaps to test him?
Duncan pulled on the horse's reins to stop the buggy at the side of the road. He turned to her and took both her hands in his. Then he forced her to look at him so she could read his sincerity. When she looked up, her eyes were misty. "Two foggy lakes in the morning," Duncan thought.
"I will never judge you, Scarlett. You used whatever means you felt were right to make this mill work. If hiring prisoners got you out of financial trouble, that's brave and clever of you. If you were blamed for that, then that person was not your friend. »
And he fell silent." What 'very close friend'?" This questioning darkened his mood for a few moments.
Scarlett thought about the negative judgments, criticisms and slander she had faced since the first day she took over the Kennedy store. All the tension she had built up over the past few years was inexplicably bubbling up. The incongruity of this intimate exchange gave her a boost.
"I don't regret any of the decisions I had to make. On the contrary, I assume them and I am proud of them. Since the war, I have fought alone to feed and protect my family. So, it didn't matter what the means were. The only important thing was that they were no longer hungry and cold. »
He was amazed by the fighting spirit that her frail body exuded.
Then she added: "It's strange. I'm not used to opening up. I've always had to be strong and unflappable to others. And here we are on the side of a road in South Carolina, and I'm opening up as if you were an old friend! "Until now, there had been only one in her life. And he had abandoned her.
Duncan tightened his grip. "I will be your friend, if you will honor me with your trust, Scarlett. We've known each other twenty-four hours, and yet..." He paused, paralyzed by a flood of emotions that baffled him. This was crazy! Totally irrational. Except that, since yesterday afternoon, he had been going down unknown paths.
He straightened up and regained some confidence. We're only a mile from Charleston. There's an restaurant nearby with a reputation for good food. And it's time for lunch. Let's go. This will warm us up.
She had pulled herself together, and gently removed her hands from his grip. She stroked her shoulders. Her moment of weakness was over. Scarlett the conqueror was back.
After enjoying their hot food, Duncan resumed the conversation.
"It is quite remarkable that you run your stores by yourself. Even in Paris, I don't remember meeting such an independent businesswoman. If, perhaps one, Marie, the wife of my neighbor and friend, Charles Frederik Worth*. She runs her husband's store with a masterful hand. Moreover, by wearing the exclusive creations designed for her in her social life, she has become the best ambassador for the Worth Couture House. »
Scarlett was left breathless. "Worth? Do you mean the famous French master of fashion? The one who dressed the greats, like the Empress of France**? "The dapper Scarlett was suddenly transported into a dream world, that of the fashion journals she loved. She fixed her interlocutor with surprise by realizing suddenly the proximity of this one with the mythical character.
Duncan was mesmerized by the shimmer of the two emeralds facing him. The designer wondered, "How can the eyes display such a wide prism stretching from soft green to metallic green? »
He let his thoughts wander again. "What is happening to me? I'm ridiculous to react like this! "He tilted his head slightly to the side and proudly resumed his explanation.
"Indeed, he is my friend. Our two fashion houses are located side by side on Rue de la Paix. You probably know that Worth is the initiator of "Haute Couture" in France**. Unlike other couturiers and tailors, who, it must be said, are executors at the service of their clients, following their tastes and style requirements, he and I dream the sketch, invent the model, and - dare I say it - make the fashion**.
"Does this mean that you impose your outfit choices on even the greatest of this world? I must admit that I am in awe of your talent! ». She dug her dimples a little deeper.
The seducer was rejuvenated. "That is the privilege of the artist. " His mustache twitched with the pleasure of having impressed her. "Our goal, Charles Frederick and I, is to be elitist and rare. Every creation is singular. That's why, whether it's the noble or wealthy French bourgeoise, or the New York millionaire, they are happy to have a unique set dedicated to them. The only latitude I allow my client is the choice of color or fabric. »
Duncan was proud to be able to shine with Scarlett O'Hara.
"I was lucky when I created "La Mode Duncan" in Paris. I owe my success in France to Worth. At a dinner party, he introduced me to the Empress Eugenie's milliner, who bought several models from me. It is true that when I moved to 9 rue de la Paix in 1865, Frederick Worth already had all the queens, empresses and princesses of Europe at his feet - to take their measurements!** And I must modestly confess that when I left, "La Mode Duncan" had the honor, too, of dressing the most famous Europeans, princesses or celebrities."
Scarlett was excited. "This is fascinating! You're the first artist I've met." she concluded with a teasing smile.
Duncan leaned over the small table where they were sitting so that their heads were closer together. His eyes had darkened. In a dull voice, he admitted, "You are fascinating! »
The tension became palpable. Scarlett was aware that she was blushing slightly. God! How long had it been since she felt that pleasant little tingle?
She made a small movement backwards to increase the distance that separated them. And to break the spell.
"I'll be happy to visit the workshops of "La Mode Duncan" before I return to Atlanta. »
He straightened up. "When are you going back? »
"Tomorrow morning. Work awaits me, if I want to be able to open my store in less than three months. »
"Let's go then! I'll take you behind the scenes of the Haute Couture! "And they finished in the buggy the mile that separated them from the Battery.
The sewing room was bright and airy. As soon as they arrived, Duncan introduced her to the workshop manager, Blanche Bonsart.
Scarlett detailed the young woman with curiosity. She was no taller than she was. Her chestnut hair was encircled in a bun with a black ribbon around it. Her features were regular, brown eyes. The round shape of her chin and cheeks gave her a youthful character. She was slim and alert. Scarlett judged that she must be 25 years old at most. "Pretty! "she admitted.
Blanche greeted the visitor politely, in hesitant English, with a strong French accent.
"I asked Blanche to join me in America because she is certainly the best Parisian haute couture worker."
The young Frenchwoman blushed under the compliment of her boss.
"I wanted to recreate the same structure here as in my French fashion house. And it was Blanche who recruited the staff, which was a difficult task, I must admit. »
"The selection was rigorous among the candidates from the surrounding states, attracted by the desire to be part of a luxury fashion house and a good salary. Most of them had experience in the clothing industry and serious references, but Blanche also demanded their availability and dexterity in handling needles. »
Scarlett listened attentively, happy to discover a new universe with concrete applications.
Duncan continued to explain the organization of the workshop. The few hours he'd spent with Scarlett this morning had taught him that technical explanations didn't put her off, quite the opposite. "There is a strict hierarchy of functions: at the bottom of the ladder, the young seamstresses, who have been deemed highly motivated to train, the "arpettes," are responsible for "placing the pins" on the patterns. Next come the "qualified first hands" and the "second hands".
At each work space, Blanche introduced Scarlett to the tools used for each function. "My head seamstress' mission was primarily to add a "French touch" to the talents already acquired, whether in the method of fabrication or the use of a particular tool. We had to recruit or train embossers with deft fingers to give shape to unlikely flowers, corsetières and arganpières*** essential for braiding crinolines, lacemakers using the techniques of the masterpieces of Roubaix, and embroiderers worthy of those in Calais. »
Scarlett marveled at each employee at work, delicately handling fabrics, each more beautiful than the next, incorporating beads or minerals into the embroidery. She inquired about the number of hours it took to make a particular fold or to finish a lace.
Duncan admired her wandering through the world she seemed to be absorbing.
Scarlett witnessed the interaction between the young French woman and her boss, who sometimes gave her directions in French. She would respond by pointing out to the client a particular detail of finishing or embroidery, or the sewing machines that would guarantee the strength of the seams.
The complicity between them seemed obvious. Scarlett wondered if there wasn't something deeper going on. She had caught a few admiring glances from Blanche to her boss.
"Is she his mistress? "she asked herself. She looked at the two of them. Yes, they could be a beautiful couple. She felt a little twinge of jealousy. "No! I'm not jealous! But... what a handsome man.! »
"Blanche, could you show Mrs. O'Hara the sewn clothes from Savannah's collection? »
Smiling, the workshop manager directed her to a huge changing room where clothes were protected by cloth covers.
She released the textiles of their wrappings, so that Scarlett could admire them one after the other. She was amazed at the delicacy of execution and originality. These dresses were even more beautiful than those she had seen in Savannah.
Her fingers caressed a deep green model, dotted with interlaced magnolia flowers, delicately embroidered.
Ecstatic, she turned to Duncan. "This dress is a gem! »
He approached her, let his hand slide over the organza, until it almost touched Scarlett's.
"I have a suggestion for you. »
Curious, she waited.
"When the manager of Savannah opened my store, I asked his young wife to wear one of my designs to promote the collection in the store. I'm going to offer you the same thing. What do you think? Will you do me the honor of putting on this dress?"
Duncan hoped Scarlett would believe his lie. The Savannah manager was not married.
Scarlett's eyes widened. "It's true she's beautiful, Duncan. You're right. I'll buy it and keep it for myself. »
Duncan refused. "Since you'll be my ambassador for Duncan's Fashion in Atlanta, it's only fitting that I offer it to you as a business gesture. »
Scarlett was embarrassed. "No! Duncan, I can't accept. »
But he insisted. "Who better than you to symbolize my clothing line in Georgia? Please accept! I will be very happy to do so. »
Scarlett pinched her lower lip. It was tempting...
"In that case, I would be delighted to represent your ready-to-wear line in Atlanta.
The young designer's eyes sparkled with pleasure.
"All right! »
He called his head seamstress who had left them alone. "Blanche, I need you to take Mrs. O'Hara's exact measurements so we can readjust this dress as closely as possible. »
With a smile, Blanche tells her boss's new client to head to the fitting room at the back of the room.
At the last moment, Duncan added in French, "Blanche, I want all the measurements from head to toe. »
She nodded her head in understanding. Before Scarlett disappeared into the fitting room, he said, "When you're finished, would you please join me in my office? »
Blanche dexterously helped the client undress, then called the sewing corrector. Using a tape, she calculated the chest, waist and pelvis measurements, as well as the length of the arms and legs, all of which Blanche dutifully wrote down in a notebook.
Scarlett was surprised that the seamstress also measured her head carriage and feet. "Not very useful for the dress," she thought mockingly. But she let them. It was certainly part of their work routine.
When that was finished, Blanche preceded Scarlett to show her the way to the designer's office upstairs.
At the sight of her, Duncan rose from his chair.
"This is the artist's den! " she exclaimed, as she looked around the vast space. She glanced appreciatively at the drawers' workshop furniture, the sketches on the wall, and the draper's table. "I feel like I'm stepping into the secret of the gods! »
Flattered, he pointed to the framed prints. "These designs were part of my last haute couture collection in Paris in 1874. This dress was designed for an Austrian princess, this one for a famous stage actress. The latter is featured in the English court. »
Scarlett was impressed. The stature of the man in front of her was growing by the hour.
Then she approached the sketches hanging on the wall panels. "So this is where it all begins. From a simple curve, you will imagine the most beautiful jewel box of the woman. "She did not hide her astonishment.
Duncan simply smiled. He pointed to the watercolor plates on the table:
"In a fortnight, these models will symbolize the American Haute Couture of the year 1876 in New York. For the first time, the Vayton & Harvey Mills will be featured with its signature fabric, organza and indigo brocade. The dresses from "La Mode Duncan" will mark the highlight of this annual event hosted by the owner of the Iron Palace. »
"During this period, the store's rotunda will be draped in luxurious fabrics. The decorations and displays on the previous Couture exhibits were so dazzling that the New York press compared the event to the last World's Fair in Paris in 1867. **** "
Duncan's enthusiastic tone became more hesitant, "The event is on Saturday, March 6. Scarlett, you would do me a great honor if you would be my guest on that day. "Then he added, as if by oversight, "With your husband, of course.»
Scarlett paused to think. The event would be spectacular. But the timing was really not right.
"I thank you for your invitation. But I must make arrangements to sell my store, my land and buildings so that in May I can devote myself to the opening of "The Boutique Robillard".
She added. It's time to take my leave now. I am sorry that I have taken up so much of your time. Thanks to you and the exciting day you gave me, I am free of the worry of building up my stock. With the exception of the haberdashery and fashion accessories line that I want to add. Could you recommend a supplier who imports frivolities from France?»
Duncan had recovered from his disappointment at not seeing the beautiful Scarlett in a fortnight. "Later, I'll find an opportunity to meet her..." She hadn't responded when he'd invited "her husband" as well. Frustrated, he still didn't know if there was a Mr. O'Hara well alive - and well married to the gorgeous Georgian. But, without notice it, she had just provided him with an opportunity to extend her presence today.
"There is a better solution: I buy my own supplies from a wholesaler in Paris. Of course, it's in your best interest to buy directly from the source rather than from a New York middleman. In a few days, my associate Roger Dax will ship a large load of Vayton & Dax textiles for sale in New York. He will also be enclosing, for my Establishment, rolls of precious fabrics that are not made here in America as well as rare Calais lace. It will be sufficient for you to make your selection from the supplier's catalog. I will communicate your order to the wholesaler by telegram. Your purchases will be packed in our crates. »
"What a wonderful idea! You are definitely my savior today! "She smiled at him sincerely, without coquetry, happy that this businessman made it so easy for her to implement her project.
He opened a drawer, pretended not to see the catalog that was spread out under his fingers. "I can't find it. That's all right. I have a second copy at home. My sister Melina has placed her 'order' for Parisian accessories - which will be generously paid for by her older brother! "he added with a laugh. The illustrated fare is in my office at the Magnolias' Mansion. »
Duncan's blue eyes stared intently at the young woman, "Scarlett, before I take you back to your aunts' house, we're going to stop by my house in the Battery for you to look at that catalog. We'll take the opportunity to have tea with my mother."
He didn't even give her time to answer and led her towards the exit.
Scarlett felt herself spiraling. So much had happened since yesterday and her first meeting with Duncan Vayton. The discovery of the textile industry, then the world of high fashion, the bargains she'd gotten for her stock. All the doors seemed to open magically. Unfolded by a charming man! She let herself be led in the direction of the Magnolias' Mansion.
***
Notes on chapter 15.
*Marie Vernet, wife of Charles Frederick Worth, 1825-1898, and the first "mannequin". Source: Wikipedia
Charles Frederik Worth, associated with the Swedish Otto Bobergh. Source Wikepedia
***Trades of sewing : source :
**** Stewart in the context of a uniquely American variant of "the brilliant and varied exhibition of the industry and taste of all nations. "A. T. Stewart's Grand Exposition," The Independent 23, no. 115 (February 16, 1871): 5; "Stewart's Spring Show," New York Observer and Chronicle 50, no. 10 (March 7, 1872). Source visualizingnyc.
Disclaimers : I do not own the story and the characters of Gone with the Wind which belong to Margaret Mitchell. I created the "world" of Duncan Vayton and Blanche Bonsart.