Chapter 34 – A day at Monnickendam

A little before 11:30, Martin manoeuvred the Lexus out of the parking of the hotel and carefully rode through some of the small streets, before entering a broader road that led to the North of Amsterdam. They had to cross the water of "het IJ"*).

'Het IJ' could be considered as the port of Amsterdam. It is at the eastern end of the Noordzee Kanaal, the 18 mile long channel that connects the North Sea and the Ijsselmeer. When you travel by foot or by bike, you can best take the ferry to cross it, but we will take the tunnel', Martin explained.

Instead of taking the direct road to Monickendam, Martin took the narrow roads through the wetlands. They passed villages with unpronounceable names like Zunderdorp, or Broek in Waterland. The meadows were mottled with dandelions and buttercups, amongst which the black and white cows grazed the green grass or ruminated happily. On the ever present ditches, ducks and swans were floating and enjoying the April morning sun. A little further away, lambs were frolicking in the pasture, obviously also enjoying the beautiful spring day.

'Oh Martin, look how sweet!, Louisa said. 'What a beautiful country!'

'Hmm, yes, but it rains a lot here too. No wonder those animals are so glad to get some sunlight..'

'It makes me happy!', Louisa said. 'Look James, little lambs!' A happy squeal confirmed that James shared his mother's feelings.

Martin wisely held his tongue. For years, his opinion on happiness was that it was overrated. But, he wouldn't spoil the day for Louisa. He knew by now that it would also spoil his own day. He liked to see Louisa's and James's happiness.

A bit before lunch time, they entered Monickendam, a small town with traditional houses, located on the borders of the Ijsselmeer**). Martin parked the car just outside the city centre and they started to walk through the town. At the tourist information, they gathered some information on the town

'On February 25, 1355 - the day after St. Matthijsdag - Count of Holland, William V acknowledged Monnickendam as an official city. Monnickendam obtained charters and privileges, also called town charter, which resulted in important privileges for the community. At that time, Monnickendam crated its own legal system, its own legislation and its own board. This marked the beginning of further growth. A church was built on the place where the Kerkstraat, Noordeinde and Middendam came together. Today only the Speeltoren, a tower remains of this.', Louisa read out loud.

'This must be it', she added. Martin took some pictures of his beautful wife and son in front of the old building.

'In 1356 city expanded and around 1400 a monastery called Mariëngaarde was built near the the place where we find the Great Church or St. Nicholas Church nowadays. The monks of this monastery might have given the town its name. A "monnik" being a monk in Dutch. In 1575 the walls of the city was replaced by a wall with four gates and four bastions', Louisa continued.

Martin and Louisa walked along the remainders of the walls and followed the walkway surrounding the main part of the historic city that testifies the existing of the fortress.

Louisa continued to read from the leaflet she had obtained at the Tourist information.

'It's not easy to form a complete picture of Monnickendam in the fourteenth century, because no images have been preserved. But we do know that Monnickendam at that time had an administrative or economic key role in the region and a large population, which justified why it obtained city rights. After 1575 the city flourished. Buildings and street names remember on the activity of this period.'

In the centre of the town Martin and Louisa saw dozens of historic buildings.

'The building De Waag reminds us of the cheese makers and various street names refer to parts of a particular business. Monickendam still has many shipyards and smokehouses that find their origins in this period. Through continuous flow of water from the former Zuiderzee and the River Purmerland Ee, which was directly connected to the underlying lakes such Purmer, Beemster, Schermer and Alkmaar, even big ships were able to reach the port of Monnickendam. The result was that Monnickendam maintained a flourishing trade with the Baltic countries', Louisa read.

'The "Waag" is a restaurant nowadays, what if we have lunch there, Martin?

'Let's have a look at the menu' Martin answered. He also tried to get a glimpse of the hygienic state of the pub.

'Mmm, A good selection of healthy soups and salads', Louisa stated, 'Looks good to me'.

'Yes', Martin replied. He pushed the baby stroller through the wide door. The restaurant was quiet, as it was a bit past the usual lunch time for Dutch people. Only an elderly couple, accompanied by two boys of about eight and ten, were seated at a table near the window. Louisa also wished to have a table near the window, but there was enough space between the tables for each family to have their privacy.

Louisa judged that James had been buckled up in car seats and stroller for too much time already, so she spread out on the floor the special play-blanket she had taken with her and installed her son on it. She took some toys and some books out of the bag and gave it to him.

Martin scowled and hissed

'Louisa, that floor is probably very dirty! Think of all the germs James can get in contact with!'

'Nonsense, the floor looks clean to me and he really should be allowed to move around a bit. Don't worry, when the food arrives, we'll clean his hands with these Wetties', Louisa said, trying to convince him.

Not wanting to spoil the day, Martin knew it was a lost battle, but he resolved to check on the boy before letting him touch any food. Besides, James appeared to be happy, now that he was freed from the straps that had buckled him up in the stroller. He joyfully played with the colourful stacking cups that his mother had given him a few minutes before.

Martin looked around and his eyes fell upon the persons at the other table. His professional eye estimated the age of the elderly man at eighty, his wife was probably a few years younger. The two boys, most likely the couple's grandsons, behaved well and were rather quiet. Of course, he couldn't understand what they were saying, but it seemed that the grandfather was explaining something to the boys, in a very entertaining way, because the boys hung on his every word.

Martin suddenly got a knot in his stomach when he realized that his own son would never have an outing of this kind with his grandparents. His father had died and his mother… He didn't even want to think about her, let alone allow her to take James with her without his, or Louisa's ever present eyes on her. Not that there would be any chance that she'd ever show up again anyway. Louisa's parents weren't any better. Not much of a chance that Eleanor or Terry would take James to a historical places.

Louisa drew his attention, by saying 'Penny for them..? Or maybe not, your thoughts don't seem to be very pleasant, judging from the deep frown on your face'.

'It's not important', Martin answered.

The two boys both stood up to go and wash their hands. When they came back they both stood next to their grandfather and obviously begged him to do something. The old man took a ballpoint out of one of the pockets of his jacket and started to make a drawing on the back of a beermat. James, who had been watching the boys walk away and come back, was intrigued by seeing other children, so he crawled towards them. Louisa saw it, but let him go. When James arrived near the smallest of the boys, he tucked at the boys trousers and pulled himself up. The boy noticed it and bent down to prevent James from falling.

'Pas op ventje, straks val je nog', he said. ***)

The grandmother said something to the older boy, who came towards Louisa and Martin.

'Mag uw zoontje kijken wat mijn opa doet?', he asked. ****)

'I am sorry, I don't understand you', Louisa answered, already preparing to stand up and to come and fetch James.

'Sorry', the young boy said in English now, 'Can your son come and see what opa does?'. Obviously, he didn't know the word for grandpa, but both Louisa and Martin understood what he wanted to ask.

'Well, of course! You speak English already, that's very good!', Louisa replied. 'Go and tell your grandfather that it's ok'.

'Thank you madam, we learn that at school. My brother since this year and I've had English lessons for two years now.'

Martin stood up and went towards the other table. He picked up his son, who immediately showed his dissatisfaction. Martin handed James over to the grandfather, who put him on his lap as if he did that every day. Martin presented himself. 'Dr. Martin Ellingham, GP', he said.

The old man replied giving him his name. He said 'Welcome to the Netherlands colleague. I have been a doctor too, ear nose and throat doctor, but I am retired now. I have finally time to spend with my grandsons'.

The old man protectively put an arm around James and then continued with the drawing. He draw a beautiful sailboat. Then he took another beermat and draw a nice little duck on it. He showed it to James and imitated it's quacking. James awarded his new friend with his widest grin.

The older doctor and Martin exchanged some words. Martin soon understood that the man in front of him really knew a lot about the local history. Curious to hear what her husband and the Dutch family were talking about, Louisa also came towards the table. She introduced herself to the couple and started to listen to the interesting stories the other doctor told them about living in a town near the Zuiderzee.

'It was a really rough sea, a lot of ships like this perished with all hands', he told. 'No wonder that the authorities wished to build the "Afsluitdijk". It turned the Zuiderzee into a much calmer Ijsselmeer. But the Ijsselmeer is quite scrupulous too. It's not safe to sail it, unless you are really experienced. It had huge consequences for the economy of towns like this', he said, 'since the fishermen couldn't reach the open sea anymore. They started fishing on eel instead. That's why you will find so many smokehouses around here. Unfortunately, not much of that species is left now..'.

Then, the orders made by the Dutch family were served out, so Martin and Louisa shook hands with the couple, picked up James and prepared to go back to their table. The smallest of the boy said in his basic English,

'Here, boy, this is for you, you can keep it'. He gave James the drawings. 'Opa can make new ones for us'.

Martin held out his hand to the boy, who took it hesitantly. 'Thank you, boy, that is generous of you', Martin said. The boy shyly looked up at his grandfather, because he didn't understand what this tall man was saying. His grandfather now pulled his youngest grandson on his lap, gave him a small kiss on top of his head and said, 'Well done. Now, let's eat, before it's cold'.

Martin and Louisa walked back to their table. He assured that James didn't put the beautiful drawings in his mouth and gently took them from his son. He showed them to Louisa.

'They are amazing!', Louisa said admiringly.

'Yes', Martin confirmed.

'I'll put them in the memory album I am making for James', Louisa stated. She put them away into her bag. At that moment, their soup was served too.

When they had finished their lunch, the two boys came towards their table and played a bit with James, who was sitting on his play-blanket again. The two older boys alternatively built a tower with the stacking cups and with loud giggles, James amused them by clattering down the stacking cups. Louisa and Martin took the opportunity to quietly finish their lunch.

After their coffee, Louisa asked,

'Martin, do we have to go to Enkhuizen today? I think I have had enough cultural information today….'

'No.. no, I think you are right. It would take another 40 minutes to go there and afterwards at least one hour and a half to go to Wijk aan zee. Let's pay the bill and then go to our holiday cottage.

Louisa nodded approvingly.

'Yes!, I can't wait to see the sea!'

Thank you for your patience. In the beginning of January my father-in-law died and it wasn't possible at the time, to write a new chapter. This chapter is dedicated to my dear father-in-law. By the way, he also made the drawing that I use as avatar on my FF profile. It was his first – and only – digital drawing that he made on my son's iPad.

*) Difficult to explain how to pronounce IJ. It's a bit like ay in May.. In Amsterdam it might even sound like I.

**) The Ijsselmeer was previously called the Zuiderzee (Southern sea). It was a dangerous sea and storms damaged a lot of surrounding towns all the time. Around 1930 they built a huge dike, the "Aflsuitdijk". Martin and Louisa will visit it later in my story.

***) Watch out little man, otherwise you'll fall!

****) Do you allow your son to come and see what my grandfather does?