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Spencer's POV

Once I see the perfect wave, I start paddling hard. I can feel my muscles burning in protest, but I grit my teeth and push through the pain. I can't worry about this right now.

I know that once the heat is over and I get back to the beach, there will be hell to pay. My friends are, I'm sure, beyond pissed and worried, and then I'll have to deal with the doctors and their long lectures about my stupidity and hard-headiness. Oh well. This will be worth it all.

As soon as I feel the wave hit the back of my board, I stand. My mind immediately clears of all my worries. This feeling is my high. It's the only thing that has really made me happy and feel free and liberated since Ashley and I broke up. I smile to myself as I decide to do one big combination of tricks. I don't think my body will be able to handle another wave after this, so right now is the time to give it my all.

I carve and do a couple floaters to gain momentum and then start the bigger tricks. The wave is an eleven footer and fairly long, so I definitely have the opportunity for several tricks.

From a backside snap, I gain speed and do a backside air-reverse, landing perfectly for a fire hydrant. Cutting back, I alley-oop and Superman over another surfer, causing them to yell out in surprise. I grab my board and pull back under my feet just in time to do a 360 carve. I slide along the top of the wave, cut back again, and see a brilliant tube forming.

Time for one last trick. I head into the tube and time seems to just slow down. I stretch out my left hand to feel the wall of water surrounding me. This is an awe moment, because it's not easy to ever ride in a tube. It's truly a humbling experience, and makes you respect the ocean and nature that much more. This is the third time I've ever been in a tube, and I don't think that it will ever stop amazing me.

Bursting out of the tube, I hang 5 as the horn signaling the end of the heat goes of. I tiredly drop back down and paddle slowly back to the beach. The fatigue and pain are fighting off my adrenaline rush and I know that passing out is a good possibility.

I finally get back to the beach as paramedics and my friends all rush down to me, every one of them yelling.

"What the hell, Spencer!"

"That was awesome!"

"Lay down on the stretcher, Miss Carlin."

"Are you insane?!"

"I need fresh bandages, stat!"

"Are you okay Spencer!"

"That was awesome!"

"Shut up, Glen!"

Their voices blend together as I subconsciously look for Ashley as I'm being forced onto a stretcher. She's a few feet away, unsure what to do. I look at her closely and see her face stained with tears. I feel bad, and that scares me. I shouldn't feel like this. Not after everything. Not after three years of bitterness and resentment. Not after loving her all this time but not having her.

"Ladies and gentlemen, we are ready to announce the final scores."

I sit upright, ignoring the protests from the paramedics. I shoot them a dirty look, and they know to back off a little. No one will stop me from hearing the scores.

All the other surfers did no better than 22. But they're not the ones I'm worried about.

"Carmen Sanchez...9.5, with the final score of...25.9!" The crowd cheers for her as she turns and looks over at me. Her big smirk infuriates me and I would like nothing more than to smack it right off her face. Before I can react, my name is announced.

"Spencer Carlin..." I hold my breath as the crowd quiets down. Everyone knows that the only competition there was, was between me and Carmen. Aiden grabs my shoulders, anxiety written across his face. I grimace at his touch, and he gives me an apologetic look. Glen is pacing back and forth, mumbling under his breath. Kyla bites her nails as Chelsea closes her eyes. Madison wraps her arm around Ashley's shoulders as Ashley wrings her hands together. Each of them knows how important this is and how it will impact my career. They also know that the results of the tournament will affect my mood, thus having an effect on mine and Ashley's conversation later.

"...a perfect 10...with the final scores of 26.1! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you our winner and the last member to join the U.S.'s surf team for the 2016 Olympics, Spencer Carlin!"

The crowd erupts into cheers and applause, and my friends all start screaming their congratulations. Shock and numbness seep through me as I register that I won. A huge grin slowly spreads on my face as I let out a victory yell.

To make this moment even more perfect, Madison points out Carmen to all of us, who is slamming her surfboard on the ground, screaming in rage. We all laugh as the judges approach us.

"Miss Carlin," one of them speaks into a microphone so everyone can hear. "You certainly gave us a scare during the second heat, and you definitely surprised us by participating in the third. Your thoughts? What made you decide to finish the competition?"

He puts the microphone in front of me and I think for a moment before responding. "Well, I don't think that I really thought about it. I just reacted. Surfing has been my everything for three years, and I know that had I not finished, I would have been so disappointed in myself."

"Aren't you in pain though?"

"Oh yeah, I'm in a lot of pain, but pain is temporary. I needed to finish the tournament, not just for my pride, or just to try to win, but because I wouldn't forgive myself had I not taken the chance to go back out there in the third heat."

"Well Spencer, what you did out there was truly amazing. I am pleased to announce, again, that you are the last person to join the U.S.'s surf team for the 2016 Olympics, where you will join Rob Machado, Kelly Slater, Carissa Moore, Lakey Peterson, and John John Florence! Congratulations Spencer Carlin!" The judges pass up a silver surfboard trophy that's a foot long, and a $10,000 check as the audience cheers me on. I feel so amazing right now.

Dr. Rivers approaches me and smiling, says, "Good job out there, Miss Carlin, but can we take you to the hospital now?" I smile at him and nod. It's probably a good idea to go and get checked out.

I get loaded into the ambulance as the others promise to meet me at the hospital. They each come up and give me a tender hug, and then Ashley walks up to me. She looks terrified as she tries to find the right words to say. I just watch her.

"You, um, you were amazing out there, Spencer."

I look at her and see her eyes darting up and down, from my eyes to the ground.

"Thank you," I reply, not sure what else to say. This is first time we've said anything to each other in three years. It's a little awkward.

"I'll see you at the hospital." She grabs my hand and gives it a little squeeze before she walks back to the others. At this point, I'm starting ti feel really dizzy and am grateful for when the paramedics say it's time to go. Glen is allowed to ride with me, and he grabs my hand as we start driving off the beach. He looks down at me and gives that protective older brother look, and I smile at him.

"I'm not going anywhere, Spence."

"I know." At that, I feel my eyes start to close on their own accord, and I let them, slipping away into unconsciousness.