Chapter 7. The Battery's neighbors and spinning mills Associates
Charleston, 1875, January
The management of his family legacy eventually secured, the young couturier could now set up the American branch of "La Mode Duncan". No time was to be wasted, for the task was going to be tough.
First and foremost, a telegram had to be sent to Lille, France.
"Blanche - stop - Need you - stop - Emigrate to America - stop - Take your children with you - stop – I send certificate of employment - stop - Letter follows - stop. »
Blanche would be surprised by this terse text, but she would soon understand the situation by reading his letter to her. He explained what he wanted from her, and enclosed certificates guaranteeing her a job and a place to live when she arrived in Charleston.
Duncan had no doubt that the loyal Blanche would immediately leave her family, her former life, to take her chances and emigrate to North America at the request of the owner of "La Mode Duncan" France.
He would arrange the immigration formalities for her so that she would not have to worry about them and booked a place on the ship in the port of Le Havre. He did not forget to send another telegram to his partner Roger Dax so that he could give one of his best workers a subsequent bonus.
If all went well, Blanche Augustine Bonsart would be there in time for the creation of the new "La Mode Duncan" workshop in Charleston.
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In the meantime, it took all his energy to select a textile factory capable of producing his own fabrics.
There was no question of importing yards of fabric from France because he wanted to take advantage of the craze for local products, which was strong in the 1870s. Duncan had seen this when he visited the gigantic H. B. Claftin and C° shop in New York, which specialized in American-made textiles. (*1)
His first dilemma was to locate one spinning mill. The majority of them were located in the Northern states. The small factories in the South processed only a negligible amount of bales while, paradoxically, the South was the Master of cotton production.
In keeping with his values, he wanted to set up in one of the former Confederate states. He was pleased to find that several mills had been established in South Carolina along the rivers, because of the abundant forests providing cheap resin to power the steam-powered machines. (*2)
In early January he chose the best spinning mills owned by Jerry Harvey and offered him a partnership. "Vayton & Son Ltd would buy 60% of the shares to take over management control.
The textile entrepreneur thus ensured that he had full control over production methods because the real problem facing Duncan was the quality of the final product.
"Mr Harvey, we have to face an unpleasant reality. As you know, the textiles that come out of our Southern mills are 'low grade'. You produce mainly canvas, which is bought mostly by poor blacks, and cretonnes, such as shirting and drills, which are sold in the West, (*1) but «La Mode Duncan » targets a wealthy clientele. It, therefore, had to use only the best quality fabrics, comparable to those woven in France, in Roubaix, Mulhouse or Lyon. »
"I am aware of that, Sir. Vayton & Harvey Woolen Mill Ltd will, no doubt, be able to rise to the challenge with the investment you are making available."
"It is true, Mr. Harvey, the project is ambitious but necessary to master the quality at all stages. Our objective is, in the short or medium term, to dominate the high-quality textile market, at least for South Carolina, Georgia and Louisiana. The sales potential is promising as it meets the aspirations of the upper-class ladies and the nouveau riche. My tailor shop will of course be the first customer for "high-end" fabrics. We will build a loyal following of Southern tailors and dressmakers who are frustrated that they cannot buy better textiles locally. »
Jerry Harvey adds: "I understand that you want our factory to be like the most modern textile mills in the North, managing all stages of production from the intake of cellulose bales, through spinning, weaving, dyeing and printing, to the transformation of the finished product."
The owner of the French spinning mill Vayton & Dax said: "Yes, we must be inspired by the modernity of the North for the automation of tasks allowing a better output, use machines for certain stages such as the handling of the cellulose bags by winch and not by hand, etc.. The labour we save will be wisely transferred to other stages of production, such as dyeing and printing. »
Jerry Harvey was impressed by his technical knowledge of the American market, despite the fact that he had just spent ten years in France. "What is your idea of influencing these steps? »
The strength of the North American spinning mills is their modernity, speed of manufacture and large quantity produced. It is also their weakness. Compare, for example, the number of looms managed by each worker: here in the North, a single weaver is in charge of five machines, with the added requirement of speed. In France, as in my spinning mill in Roubaix, the worker is only in charge of two looms at a time. (*1) You can understand that, in these conditions, even fabrics of common quality have many manufacturing defects. This is why Vayton & Harvey Woolen Mills Ltd will reduce the number of looms run by one worker to two."
"That is an excellent suggestion. It will be expensive, of course, but it will pay off in the end," reassured Jerry Harvey.
"Dyeing is my concern because I would like to use indigo. I know that its use is becoming scarce, but let us rely on the authenticity of local products. In the same spirit, we need to hire skilled chemists to ensure the consistency of the colors of the print. »
"In conclusion, in order to get closer to French quality, we will have to increase the number of staff and systematically check for defects at every stage.»
Duncan was satisfied that he had reached the end of his argument.
"Yes, Mr Harvey, you and I are about to embark on a great adventure. This week I will contact an architect to modernize the warehouses. My contacts in the North have sent me the manufacturer's catalog so that I can order the new looms and the more efficient printing machines. I am determined that production can start within three months. »
Enthusiastically, Jerry Harvey proposed to his new partner: "I will submit to you within the week a projection of the number of employees to be hired, for each stage of transformation, by position. We can keep the American quota of two-thirds of women in the spinning mill for jobs that do not require the use of too much force, because they too need to work to overcome the economic depression. We will need more women spoolers, carders, and defect workers.»
Jerry Harvey's head was spinning. He felt an immense relief: the family-spinning mill created by his father was saved! What's more, its fame would soon spread throughout the Deep South!
For Duncan, all that remained was to set up his high fashion workshop "La Mode Duncan" in Charleston. The hardest part was yet to come!
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Charleston, 1875, Wednesday 5 February, 7 East Battery, at the Butler's
"Rhett! I would really like you to come with us in the late afternoon to visit our new neighbors. The reception is not formal. It is just a « wine of honor » to celebrate the Vaytons' move to Magnolias' Mansion. »
Rhett looked at Eleonor Butler with an amused expression: "Mother, your son is 48 years old. I think you can do without my presence to go and have tea with your friends. »
"It is in your best interest. Three years ago, when you came back from Atlanta, didn't you tell me that you wanted to regain your place in our honorable Charleston society? I admit that you have made great efforts with your charity work. But what better support could you gain than from Charleston's oldest and most respected family? Especially since this friendship could also benefit your business, as the heir to Vayton Ltd is one of the richest men in the United States of America! »
Faced with this avalanche of arguments, Rhett had only one solution: to accept the invitation to the Vaytons.
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Charleston, 1875, Wednesday 5 February, 5 EastBattery, at the Vayton home
Melina had learned her lesson well by leaving the "hospitality" door to the porch open to let the Butler neighbors know that they were eagerly awaited.
Barnabee, the butler, opened the inner door to the piazza. Mrs. Vayton came to greet them warmly and directed them on their right to the drawing room.
Eleonor Butler and her daughter had had many opportunities to be received by the previous owners, the Hopkins. Nevertheless, they were amazed by the new interior design.
Mrs. Vayton introduced her daughter to the Butlers. Rhett paid his respects to Cathleen and Melina with an elegant hand kiss. They were charmed.
The hostess of the mansion apologized to her guests: "My son is in his office. He had to write an urgent letter to France. He will join us in a few minutes. »
The four women settled into comfortable chairs and happily began to exchange stories about the Battery.
Rhett took the opportunity to cast his art-loving eye over the impressively large reception room. Everything was a harmony of forms, styles, and materials.
The room occupied the entire width of the façade. The light, that radiated from the five front windows and the two French windows overlooking the piazza, accentuated the grandiose aspect of this room reserved for prestigious guests and receptions among friends.
The aesthete appreciated the conscious choice to contrast the curves of the architecture with the straight lines of the furniture. The sinuosity of the wall of the three bowed windows stretched like a serpentine on either side of the other two windows. These curved lines echoed the molded stucco frieze around the ceiling and the arch over the door. (*2)
What an aesthetic success! The osmosis between the curves, the glitter of light, and the walls partially painted in pale yellow, while the ceiling, the base, and the windows were of a brilliant white, instilled an atmosphere of tranquillity. The softness of the whole was accentuated by the pale yellow lustrous silk of the upholstered seats.
The contrast with the rigorous Empire style of the French furnishings Duncan bought in New York was all the more striking. Straight, clean lines, sharp-edged ornaments. The same antagonism of colors struck the visitor, between the mahogany and gold bronzes of the furniture as if lifted by the blond oak floor.
Rhett was fascinated. Of course, he knew the French style that Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte had initiated: originally furniture dedicated the military men, a martial style, straight seats that allowed soldiers, such as General Bonaparte, to keep their swords in a seated position without embarrassment. A spartan and severe spirit that was called the Directoire style. (*3) When Napoleon was crowned Emperor, with the pomp of the Court, the furniture became a pretext to testify to the power and wealth of the Empire. The flamed mahogany veneer was decorated with luxurious ornaments in gilded bronze, like the magnificent sphinxes enthroned under the armrests of the armchairs in the Vayton salon or the caryatids placed on either side of the overmantel. This large pier mirror topped a black marble fireplace in the American Federal style that the first owner of the house had installed.
Meanwhile, Barnabee had made his entrance. Three large silver trays generously garnished with fine food had been placed on the round side tables protected by beautifully embroidered tablecloths. The cook, Netty, had taken particular care in preparing the small canapés and other croustades. This was the very first invitation from the Vayton family. Even though it was not a dinner party, it was important to honor the closest neighbors of the Magnolias' Mansion. Barnabee was now dexterously serving refreshments.
Rhett politely accepted an appetizer with scallop terrine, and then resumed his admiring inspection of the place, while the four women were absorbed in discovering common interests.
While admiring the finesse of the "Return from Egypt" sculptures, (*3) Rhett the businessman recalled a conversation he had had with some English entrepreneurs in London. An idea came to him. It seemed obvious. At last he would find the excitement of embarking on a great adventure...
The elegance and luxury of the place definitely appealed to him.
Suddenly a regret assailed Rhett: If only I had helped Scarlett refine her tastes, instead of leaving her without advice and mocking her disastrous decorative choices, I am sure she would have loved the abundance of golden bronzes and the warmth of mahogany. The Old Guard would have been jealous of his wife, that was for sure, because of the display of so much luxury. But at least they would not have reproached her for a lapse in taste. How I regret, Scarlett...
Rhett shook his head to get rid of the flush of weakness that once again overtook him. Damn it! Why can't I put her out of my mind? Even a year after our divorce - no! It has been fifteen months since our divorce, sixteen months since we saw each other, Scarlett - and you still torment me! Will there be no end to this?
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The entrance of the master of the house interrupted his depressing thoughts and he stood up to greet the young man who was holding out his hand.
After Cathleen introduced their neighbors to Duncan Vayton, he sat down opposite the Butlers' eldest son. In a fraction of a second, the two gentlemen appraised each other.
Rhett thought that the young Vayton exuded sympathy with his frank smile and keen eye. His good looks must please the young belles! Old Ashley would be jealous of his blonde hair. He chuckled under his breath, still eager to belittle Scarlett's former blond knight, now quite grey.
Duncan, for his part, was impressed by Mr. Butler's bearing. The man wore his age elegantly, and his impeccable dress showed an undeniable accuracy of taste.
Both men identified the other as belonging to the caste of well-born and refined gentlemen.
"May I offer you a drink? In your honor, I have selected an excellent Côte Château Lafite Rothschild, from the 1870 vintage. This bottle is part of the reserve that I brought back from France when I came back here in January. I am sure you are a great connoisseur yourself, and I will be happy, another day, to show you around my wine cellar. »
Then addressing the women present: "Ladies, would you like to try this excellent wine?"
The four women gently refused. They did not want to disturb the cordial understanding that seemed to have developed between the two men.
"Cathleen, ever since we arrived, I have been admiring these lovely tablecloths on the pedestal tables. The fabric is of such beautiful quality and the embroidery designs are exquisitely difficult! »
Duncan's mother smiled broadly, "Dear Friend, I am proud to say that they are made in the French mill owned by my son. "Then, turning to the young man, she said, "Duncan, could you ask your partner to send Mrs. Butler several sets of tea towels to complement the large embroidered doilies?»
Mrs. Butler politely declined at first but was delighted with the gift to come.
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Rhett thought that the man in front of him was definitely resourceful.
"Duncan - I think we can call each other by our first names. What do you think? "The other nodded. I would love to, Rhett! »
He continued: "I am in awe of your Empire-period furniture. At West Point, when we were taught the military strategy of the French Emperor, we sometimes made a foray into the study of Napoleon Bonaparte-influenced lifestyles and decorating style."
Duncan was amazed at the similarities between them. "It was my love for this great character that made me decide to decorate Magnolias' Mansion with an Empire feel, particularly influenced by the battles fought by General Bonaparte in the Egyptian Campaign.
The young man added: "And I too began to admire Napoleon at West Point! What a happy coincidence, Rhett! We have the same artistic tastes, we are avid oenophiles and we have had similar training. I think we will get along just fine! "Duncan gave Rhett his friendliest smile.
He went on: "Which regiment did you lead during the war? Perhaps we have crossed paths?»
Rhett suddenly found himself on a ridge. To admit that he had only joined the Confederacy at the end when the South was about to lose - that famous night when he had abandoned Scarlett on the road to Rough and Ready? It might not look good for this new 'knight in shining armor'. Well, he did not care. Damned it! The great Rhett Butler was proud of his past, and he would impress the impetuous young man!
"I was a blockade breaker. One of the best, I must humbly confess!" he assured them in a drawl so charming that the four women stopped their casual conversation to listen to his story.
"I was in command of one of the largest steam-powered sidewheelers, the SS Lynx. It had a steel hull and was 220 feet long. (*4) But I changed a year later to a smaller, more malleable and much faster steamer, capable of dodging the Federal Navy. I was probably one of the first to be awarded the "letter of marque" signed by President Jefferson Davis, which attested to my service to the Confederacy." Rhett gave his mother a mischievous smile. "A paper that would not have protected me from hanging if I had been captured by Federal forces.»
Mrs Butler shuddered in retrospect: Her dear daredevil of a son!
"The Yankee naval army had set up the "Anaconda Plan", a blockade belt encircling the Confederate states. The front line looked like a snake, running from Maryland up the Missouri River. And it was indeed an anaconda that strangled the Confederate states by preventing them from obtaining arms, getting supplies from Northern factories, receiving cargo from British ships, and being able to export their cotton production. »
Rhett the seducer was now mostly talking to Melina for the sake of impressing her.
"What were you carrying? "asked the young Vayton, amazed to have an adventurous hero as a neighbor.
"Mostly weapons for our Confederate Army, gunpowder, bullets for rifles, and mail too: in our own way, we were in the front line of the fighting! »
"We would have to sail along the coast at night, using Indian tricks to get into the harbor and fool the Union ships!" Rhett's eyes glistened at the excitement and fear that gripped the entire crew as they approached the danger.
Cathleen Vayton also found herself transported by the exploits of the former blockade breaker: "How many times have you managed to get through the lines? »
"Thirty-three times! My first arrival in Nassau was on 5 December 1861. We were loading cargoes from England, filled with guns, lead, meat, saltpeter, shoes, blankets, coffee, and also the more luxurious items of clothing and sewing, necessary for your daily life, dear ladies! »
"The transfer points, between the ships coming from England and us taking over the cargo, were from Nassau. Then we sailed to the ports of Wilmington, Charleston and Savannah. On the return trip to Nassau, the planters would entrust us with their cotton production, which would then make the crossing in English freighters. »
"The hull of my little steamer was painted grey to make it as inconspicuous as possible offshore. Duncan, did you know that when we were approaching the coast we used to feed the boiler with anthracite coal instead of coal so that the smoke would be white and dissolve on the horizon? I have even used cotton soaked in turpentine to raise the heat and substantially increase the speed."
Rhett's eye twitched as he thought of these anecdotes. "We had to use Indian tricks, I tell you!»
Duncan looked at his venerable neighbor in a new light.
"I met some brave men, who were not afraid of anything. You have probably heard of the famous Josiah Gorgas, who also graduated from West Point. He was my friend. »
Duncan admired Rhett Butler's valor. "Yes! The Cause has paid tribute to those brave blockade-breakers who braved machine-gun fire and the beaching of their ships to relieve us of Yankee asphyxiation. However, it is regrettable that some took advantage of this to enrich themselves by not giving priority to supplying our troops. I remember a certain Butler - one of your namesakes, Rhett - with whom I was in business to repatriate a shipment of military jackets and trousers made at my expense in my French factory. His transport prices were prohibitive. I had tried to make him understand by special mail that these uniforms would be used to protect our soldiers from the rigors of the rain and the cold, but nothing could change his mind! He shamelessly told me that I had to accept his price because the cargo space available on his ship was very coveted. »
Duncan gave a disillusioned pout at the memory.
Rhett got up from his seat. He looked straight at the former Lieutenant Colonel: "That was me, Captain Rhett Butler! »
Startled eyes stared at him. "You? You are disappointing me, Mr. Butler. I thought we shared the same values. After this revelation, I am not so sure..."
Rhett was not disconcerted by this sudden reversal of cordial understanding.
"Times were tough. One-third of the available space on our ships was legally reserved for the transport of cotton so that the economy would not collapse (*4) - which it did. I had to feed my crew and make a profit from these expeditions where our lives were threatened at every moment. I do not regret my choices. I take responsibility for them.»
Chin up, his imposing stature extended, Rhett stared defiantly at Duncan.
The former benefactor of the Cause just did not know how to respond.
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The ladies present became aware of the sudden change in the atmosphere. The tension between the two men had become tangible.
To distract and inject some levity, Melina brought up her favorite subject: "This place is a real paradise, but for our dear Mother's joy to be complete, we need something more.»
Cathleen wondered, "What are you thinking, girl? »
"To children's laughter, of course! "The young Vayton was pleased with her effect. "Isn't it your dream to see your grandchildren running around the paths of our beautiful garden?"
"Children's laughter..." Rhett felt a twinge of sadness. No, he would not imagine his beloved Bonnie sharing the games of other children here. Or else he would not be able to keep a straight face until the end of this reception.
Mrs. Vayton exchanged a knowing smile with Mrs. Butler. "I hope this dream will soon become a reality thanks to our children!" Then her gaze fell on Duncan.
He was still confused by his neighbor's revelation. "Why are you looking at me, Mother? I am leaving it to Melina to ensure the Vayton descendants. When will you take a husband, my dear sister?"
Melina blushed: "When I find my Prince Charming." Then she jumped in: "You are the oldest. It is up to you to get married first. Are you ready to introduce us to the woman of your dreams?»
Duncan was taken aback by his sister's questioning.
"The woman of my dreams? A concept that never crossed my mind, I confess." he chuckled. "In fact, I doubt very much that she exists! "In any case," he added, giving his sister a sly smile, "you would be the first to know if I ever came across her. Let me tell you, I m not about to introduce you to her! »
Melina teased: "Make an effort, Big Brother. How will you recognize her?»
He remained silent for a few moments, in deep introspection. Surprised by his own train of thought, he finally said in a hesitant voice:
"If she existed, I think I would know it immediately. Within the first few minutes. She would have a fiery temperament, a panther ready to purr or claw, soft skin..." Duncan paused abruptly, embarrassed by his indecent confidence, an admission of weakness made all the more awkward by the fact that it had been dropped in the presence of a man as impavid as Rhett Butler.
Rhett, who had approached the piazza, froze. A succession of images assailed him: a library, a green muslin, a pearly shoulder, a broken vase, two emeralds, sparkles of anger... He closed his eyes to chase away the hallucinations that haunted him every night. In a rage, he shoved his fists into his pockets.
Melina looked at her brother in amazement: "Oh, you the hardened bachelor, would you be indeed a passionate man? You did not accustom me and Mother to such lyricism!" She burst out laughing.
The young man did not know what to say. Without noticing it, he had put words to a fantasy that he did not dare to dream. "Do not get too excited, dear sister. In any case, this woman does not exist.»
Melina then turned to the eldest son of the Butler family. "What about you, Rhett? Would you describe the woman of your dreams to me? Who knows, maybe your sister and I could find her among our friends ... What do you think Rosemary?" Her laughing eyes met the embarrassed faces of both the Butler women and her mother.
"Melina, this is unseemly of you. "Cathleen sternly rebuked her, outraged that Rhett Butler's chaotic marital situation could be so cavalierly invoked.
Then she turned to Rhett: "Mr Butler, I apologize for my daughter's indiscretion. Melina is as giddy as a child. In her defense, I must say she is an incorrigible romantic. »
Her daughter then realized her blunder. She was clearly missing a piece of information that those present had.
Eleonor Butler was silent, fearing a sarcastic reaction from her son.
Duncan had lost interest in the subject and was enjoying his glass of wine. The intense argument of a few minutes ago was still bothering him. So he told himself he did not give a damn about Rhett Butler's dreams of women.
With that drawl he liked to use before he was about to make a hurtful remark, Rhett replied to Cathleen: "I see no offense in your dear daughter's innocent question.»
Then, with a smirk that looked more like a sneer, he amused himself by staring at the young woman who was now blushing with confusion.
"The dream woman? You should know, Miss Melina, that sometimes we have to take control of our dreams, to give up those that are futile." Then his gaze drowned in the direction of the porch.
His intonation froze the other four guests. The awkwardness that had crept in over the last quarter of an hour became overwhelming. It was time to end the tension.
"Cathleen, I'm sure you are exhausted from moving in. It is now time for us to take our leave and for you to rest. The warm welcome you have given us in your beautiful mansion is very special to me. We shall both see you next week. Good evening to you, my dear friend, and to your lovely daughter and the talented Duncan! »
That evening, two neighbors who could have been friends were not sad to part...
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End notes:
(*1) My sources of information on the cotton economy and textile mills in the USA in 1870 are based on Louis Reybaud's thesis published in 1870, "L'Industrie et les Ouvriers du Coton aux États-Unis depuis la guerre de secession", Revue des Deux Mondes, 2nd period, volume 90, 1870.
(*2)South Carolina textile mills,the Piedmont Manufacturing – source Piedmont Manufacturing Company Number One, National Park Services, National historic landmarks
(*3) check the inside of the Magnolias' Mansion, actually the "Pink Mansion" on the Battery in Charleston, for instance the living room with the inside curved bow-windows, etc…, at: estately com - listings - 26 S South Battery - listings/info/26-s-south-battery.
(*4) Empire style furniture and Directoire, 1795-1799: the government that succeeded the period of the French Revolution. The Directoire style of furniture extends to 1803. - Egyptian Campaign: battles led by General Bonaparte from 1798 to 1801 - "Return from Egypt": term characterizing the style of ornamentation - Empire, 1804-1815: General Bonaparte was crowned Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. - Empire-style furniture, from 1803 to 1821.
(*5) Blockade Breakers during the American Civil War: source Wikipedia ; American Battlefield Trust learn/articles/blockade-runners