Chapter 14. Struck by lightning at first sight
Charleston, February 20, 1876, at the headquarters of "La Mode Duncan", 26 South Battery, Charleston
One year later…
Duncan was sitting in his second-floor office at the „La Mode Duncan" headquarters at 26 South Battery.
He was waiting.
He had abandoned the cardboards of the new dresses' sketches scattered on the long drapery table serving as his office.
A pile of outfit drafts was laid out in preparation for an event close to his heart, the official celebration of his fashion house in his dear city of Charleston next May.
Other sketches, sitting on the walnut top, had already been transformed into sewing unique models, waiting for the next show in two weeks in New York. These would be added to the other drawings stored flat inside the solid mahogany cabinets, fitted with deep drawers, the front of each of which was no more than four inches high. These cartographic cabinets had been designed so that the pressure of a large pile of documents would not damage each sheet.
On the wall to the right of his desk, panels were used to temporarily hang the silhouettes Duncan had drawn on whatever papers he had on hand when an idea came up. Sometimes it was a simple curve, which to the untrained eye looked like nothing, or at best a geometric shape. Only the brain of the artist Duncan was able to transform those basic lines into the movement of a garment he envisioned making after a particular cut or pucker. One stroke of the pencil, and his practical mind was already estimating the difficulties that his head seamstress, Blanche, would have to solve in order to capture the subtleties of a drape intended by the brilliant designer.
On the left wall, other sketches of dresses were closer in quality to real watercolor lithographs. The finesse of the pen stroke, the perfection of the detail, and the stencils in pastel colors transformed the drawings into true works of art. The exact copies of the unique garments exhibited the previous year in Paris. (*1)
They had been framed, and carefully displayed for avoiding a single inch of extra space between two paintings.
What a dichotomy between the maniacal precision of the layout of the engravings and the heterogeneous jumble of sketch projects facing them, hastily fixed with small pins, without taking care!
As Duncan was comparing the whole set, he realized that the contrast, surprising to anyone who entered the designer's office, was in fact deeply reflective of him: the aesthetic mastery of the Vayton heir, mixed with the creative impulses of a fiery, instinctive Duncan. A passionate aspect of his personality that he was aware of, but which he had suppressed for so many years that it only showed through in creative outbursts, or in details not deciphered by those around him, such as these anarchically fixed worksheets.
He was early for his appointment. The person he was waiting for would arrive in fifteen minutes. The young man had received a telegram from the manager of Duncan's Fashion in Savannah, telling him that a business woman was interested in selling his collection in Georgia, and that she wanted to discuss it with him.
The designer's first instinct was to refuse to meet with her, arguing – politely - in a letter that there was no way he could compete with two stores of the same brand in Georgia. The Savannah manager insisted because he had been "charmed by this business woman," he wrote. Once again, Duncan Vayton realized that his sales clerk had not understood his boss's expansion strategy.
However, curious of discovering is this lady was so "charming," the owner of "La Mode Duncan" eventually settled an appointment for that afternoon of the 20th of February. Women running their own businesses were not common. She deserved at least that he receives her to recommend the names of designers more accessible to a large clientele. Then she would leave satisfied with her visit, and he would be relieved of that problem.
In an hour, I have to meet John at the Gentlemen's Club Haven. Which means that the conversation with the Georgian should not take long.
It was almost time. He went down the stairs and reached the most beautiful showroom surrounded by the piazza.
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As he stepped out onto the gallery through one of the French windows to breathe the fresh air, he congratulated once again his father for having had the idea to buy and restore this palace.
His eyes were lost in contemplation of the shoreline. How quiet it was! It was a beautiful sunny day for the month of February. The intensity of the light dazzled him.
He heard the noise of the bronze knocker, the door open, and the voice of his first sales woman greeting the new arrival while she was relieving her of her coat and hat.
He turned around at the sound of rustling silk, and entered the room again.
He was still blind from staring too hard at the brightness of the horizon. His eyes had to readjust to the darkness.
He faced the person who had just entered the exhibit room. He blinked to get a better look but, dazzled by the sun, he only discerned a form against the light.
A ray of light was flickering behind her and causing thousands of tiny dust particles to twirl around the figure, enveloping her like a halo.
It reminded him of a ghost that appeared out of nowhere, an apparition. Yes, an apparition was watching him.
During a couple of seconds which seemed to him frozen in time, He distinguished only curves, her hips, the voluptuous curve of her hips going up sinuously towards a fine waist. His glance of aesthete continued its peregrination towards the bulge of her molded breasts under her corset. A scarf in green muslin hid the birth of her neck.
His eyes went up to the apparition's head again. In the meantime, the ray of light had changed direction and now illuminated her face. As under the effect of a candle, that one had put knowingly in front of her to better contemplate her.
He discovered two small dimples framing a pulpy mouth. Then he had the impression to drown again in the ocean which he had just admired on the piazza.
This time though, it looked like an extent of a calm sea, a lake whose foliage was reflecting in water, of the jade iris, which was aspiring him towards a green abyss.
Duncan tried to stare more clearly at his visitor, but the glare persisted. Disturbing blindness. An alien disturbance, so disconcerting that it rendered him speechless for a few moments.
Scarlett was surprised by this moment of astonishing floating. She took advantage of it to admire the man who was facing her. So attractive, my goodness! What eyes, of such an intense blue! And this blond hair that reminded her of another one from a long, long time ago... A slender body, a strong presence...
She decided that she did appreciate the scenery. With delight, she thought: It has been a long time since I have met such an attractive man… She felt a little twinge in her heart at that moment, because an image immerged thoughtlessly: the one of the dazzling of a muscular silhouette undressing her of the glance at the bottom of a staircase…
Duncan finally came to his senses. He took a few steps toward her as if drawn by a magnet. She had made a step too. Two hips were moving sensuously in his direction. They were only two feet away from each other. He felt the scent of her bewitching perfume. He could not prevent himself from smelling the air so that his skin imbued with it.
He nodded in greeting. Duncan was still mute. Paralyzed. He heard, "I'm very pleased to meet you, Mr. Vayton. I am Scarlett O'Hara. »
A dragging accent - disturbing. He made an effort to pull himself together.
"I am greatly honored to meet you, Mrs. O'Hara. I am Duncan Vayton, owner of the brand « La Mode Duncan."
The gentleman from Charleston bent slightly to grasp the visitor's gloved fingers and brushed them with a light kiss. Through the lace, her hand was warm, a warmth that was irradiating him. At this moment, his nostrils dilated instinctively to better capture the essence of her skin.
Then he straightened the head and he was caught by two green meadows, which immobilized him.
Finally, he found his voice.
"Welcome to Duncan Fashion, Mrs. O'Hara! Please take a seat." The master of the house pointed to a comfortable armchair. He chose a firmer seat to face her.
There was a particular silence between them. Not long, a few seconds. But it was disturbing enough for Scarlett to be surprised. With her best smile clearing her dimples, she then took the initiative to continue talking. "I really wanted to meet you because I was captivated by the collection you created in Savannah.»
In her voice used to charm, she continued: "Your dresses are dazzling. I confess I have never seen anything so flamboyant."
Duncan swallowed. He thought, Me neither...
By finally daring to look the young woman in the eyes, he found back his assurance of man used to seduce his entourage – particularly women.
Scarlett noticed his blond mustache twitching above his white teeth.
"I am honored that you liked my clothing line. My assistant in Savannah told me that you are considering opening a women's clothing store in Atlanta? »
Scarlett found herself in familiar territory - business! With confidence, she began to describe her project: "Indeed, I own several businesses in Atlanta that are quite successful. Now it is time for me to embark on a new, and more challenging adventure. What could be more pleasing to a lady than to be surrounded by the most sophisticated dresses I have ever seen? If I have fallen under their spell, I think the wealthy women of Atlanta will also be seduced by the rarity of these outfits. »
Listening to his interlocutor, the Haute Couture designer, who used to impose his will on the crowned heads, was destabilized. He had planned to greet her and politely explain that her project did not correspond to the expansion policy of "La Mode Duncan". Which would briefly end their conversation.
Nevertheless here he was feeling strangely captive, fearing to see the dimples underlining the smile of the beautiful Georgian disappear if by chance he had to reject her request.
The polite interruption of the first sales clerk on the threshold, who was bringing a tray of drinks and sweets, allowed him to think about a strategy for a few minutes.
The pleasant employee placed the tray on the center table, arranged the tiny pastries on the dessert plates, set out the glasses. Like Duncan, Scarlett opted for a cup of coffee. She needed the energy to carry on the discussion and fight off a disturbance that was beginning to pervade the conversation.
She discreetly noted the smile on her host's face while he was staring, with the utmost concentration, at the gestures of his employee doing the service.
Scarlett and Duncan enjoyed their drink in silence.
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A torpor seemed to crush the young woman. Her thoughts started to collide: the warmth of the sun's rays through the large bay windows, the tiredness of the train journey, her providential inheritance, the play of shadows and lights lingering on the blond curls of the young couturier... And the murderous revelations of her aunts. Which she was far to envisage when she arrived at her mother's sisters' house the day before.
They had seen each other only a fortnight ago, at the funeral of grandfather Robillard. Since then, of course, her aunts were dressed all in black. As for Scarlett, she refused to disguise back into a raven for months.
As usual, the reception of the Robillard aunts was half-hearted last night. Now that they were no longer dependent on Scarlett for their monthly allowance – thanks to their father -, did not make them any friendlier to their niece. Worse of it, she was now stained with the infamous name of "divorced woman".
Scarlett no longer paid attention to their aggressiveness.
… Until they started discussing their regular visits to their "great friend" Eleanor Butler. Scarlett straight up, waiting for the inevitable. Which came.
"Our friend seemed to be a little tired the last time we went to see her. What do you think Eulalie?"
Her sister nodded, "You are right, but it is understandable. Lately, there have been many invitations to the Butler's house. Their daughter Rosemary is becoming more and more sociable. And so is your former husband, for that matter." With that, Eulalie stared at her niece, glad with her little effect.
Scarlett did not want to please them by questioning. She was waiting.
She could feel the eyes of her aunts spying her slightest reactions.
Eulalie could not take it any longer and dropped her little bombshell: "Eleanor confessed us that she might soon have a new daughter-in-law. That did not surprise us, did it, Pauline? We have met a lovely young girl at their house several times. What is her name, by the way? Oh, yes, I remember. Roseline Tucker. A fine old family from Charleston. Each time we were there, your former husband was surrounding her with kindness.»
Scarlett did not move an eyebrow. She felt a cold sweat run down her spine. She was freezing. She shivered.
Pauline felt a pang of shame run through her. It was too easy to put all the blame on her niece. In an attempt to cheer her up, she said with an offended air that was intended to be complicit: "I understand you for not enduring his presence anymore. That man is not honorable, and will soon drag that sweet Tucker, who is twice as young as he is, into the throes of a marriage where he will disrespect her, as he did you. Come to think of it, I am glad he is no longer connected in any way with the Robillard family!"
The blow was struck. Brutal. She gritted her teeth. How easily he has replaced me!
Then a saving rage overwhelmed her: No more Rhett Butler in my life! He has spilled enough venom on me. Well, let him have some fun with a damsel who will make a fool of the old beau he has become!
With a wave of her hand, Scarlett O'Hara Robillard looked proudly at her aunts. Her voice was contemptuous: "I do not care about that man. Good for him!" Then, softening: "Let's not talk about him anymore, shall we? "
The subject was closed.
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A quiet clearing of the throat brought Scarlett back to the reality of her presence at Duncan Vayton's headquarters.
The man was looking at her now with a charming smile.
"Mrs. O'Hara, would you allow me to explain to you what my fashion house really is? »
His warm voice seemed to caress her. Scarlett concluded that the man was definitely attractive.
"My style has the ambition to combine two opposite universes, the sparkling Parisian fashion with a zest of the tradition of the Old South. This marriage is for me the signature of Vayton Haute Couture. When I created La Mode Duncan upon my return from France last year, my ambition was to be the best in my country, America, as Charles Frederick Worth is in France, for an elitist and very wealthy clientele. To achieve this goal, my business strategy is luxury displayed sparingly, and with rarity having to generate envy.»
Then he added, drowning his blue eyes in Scarlett's green sights, "I must seem a little too conquering to you! »
The young beauty from Atlanta warmed his heart by replying, "On the contrary! I admire ambition. Tell me how you succeeded. Your story is fascinating. »
Encouraged, Duncan continued to tell the story of his fashion house – not understanding exactly why he was so eager to impress his pretty visitor.
"It took me less than a year to establish my brand in the United States market where it belongs, at the top. When I was in Paris, the owner of New York's famous Iron Palace wrote to me, wanting to display my exclusive designs as the centerpiece of his annual couture exhibit. »
Scarlett raised her eyebrows. "Are you talking about the famous Alexander Stewart? I read that he created a consumer paradise for the women, and is the head of more than two thousands employees. (*2) She added, laughing at herself, "From the top of my little Kennedy store, I must admit that his ascent made me dream! »
Duncan nodded. "Yes, he is my friend" The business man looked a little embarrassed. He did not want to appear presumptuous. Although he did not mind either showing off his power. "Let's just say that Vayton & Son Limited is among the few most important American companies, and Alexander Stewart has long wanted to become our partner. »
Scarlett made no comment. Her eyes widened in surprise.
"I found in the Iron Palace the central hook of my fashion house. Stewart's target market is the New York upper class. He was the first to dedicate a floor to luxury furs. He is the largest importer of French and English clothing. I took him up on his offer. Six of my one-of-a-kind designs were on the runway at last spring's show. »
He continued, happy to share his success with this young woman who had dazzled him at first sight. "The operation was a success. The combination of French "chic" and Southern elegance charmed the eyes of all the women. Most of them, of course, will never be able to afford one of my dresses. That is how dreams are made though. The clientele I have benne targeting, the wealthy ones, were magnetized by the prospect of buying y a unique model exclusively designed and made for them. That show at the Iron Palace symbolized the beginning of my success in our country. I will tell you later, if you wish, how I definitely established my reputation in high fashion.»
Duncan gave her a triumphant look. Waiting for an appreciation.
She returned it by deepening her dimples.
Duncan Vayton felt himself growing wings.
I have never met such a fascinating man! she thought. Immediately she admitted, with regret : Yes, of course, I did. Yes… Rhett!
Scarlett felt a pain run through her. In her heart. Running through her veins.
To put it aside, she looked at the handsome man in front of her whose eyes were shining. He has just said, "He will tell me later." This means that we will meet again... She refrained a small sigh of contentment.
Her instinct of Southern belle in search of compliments made her batting her eyelids: "How quaint Atlanta must seem to you! Faced with your cosmopolitan clientele, I feel horribly provincial. »
Duncan Vayton fell for it, as used to do her former beaux in Clayton County.
Scarlett felt invigorated by her little effect.
The man in front of her gave her an appreciative look. "Do not believe it. None of these New York women could match your elegance. If you ever decide to take a tour of New York's Ladies Mile, I would be happy to be your guide because the Iron Palace is gigantic. It is recognizable from afar with a six-story cast iron exterior and a domed glass ceiling. Inside, you will be blown away by the gigantism of the place. Corinthian iron columns naturally create separations between two departments and add to the grandeur of the vast retail space. Imagine the whole place lit by natural light from the dome, and the bronze chandeliers and crystal globes, illuminating the murals and countless glass display cases. (*3) I am sure that, as a business woman, you will be enchanted by this consumer paradise."
Duncan could not stop talking. "The ladies have the pleasure of becoming the stars of their own fashion show by admiring themselves from different angles in the life-size mirrors on the second floor. And, I am not sure I should tell you," he lowered his voice and his gaze grew heavier, "the genial Stewart has thought of everything to please his female target: young, and attractive male employees have been selected to attend to the customer request."
Scarlett burst out laughing at this confidence. A cascade of juvenile giggles rippled through Duncan's chest in hot waves. He felt unsettled by the emotion this stranger suddenly provoked in him.
Scarlett was impressed. What a character! she thought.
"Mr. Vayton, you are a true artist who creates only for the greatest. May I ask you why you have this store in Savannah? »
"What you saw in Savannah was really an observation window. When I returned from Paris, I felt the need to check how my exclusive clothes were received by American ladies, who are so different from Parisians. I chose Savannah, simply because Vayton & Son Limited owns this beautiful, fully renovated antebellum building in the Deep South, but this place is only anecdotal to me. »
Scarlett nodded. "Indeed, the building has a lot of charm. Therefore, if I understand your approach correctly, you do not intend to reproduce in large numbers the dresses I admired there? »
"Indeed, I had created this clothing line as an experiment when I arrived in Charleston. Quickly, I realized that I wanted to stay in my target, that of Haute Couture. I have no desire to sell ready-to-wear clothing, - even though the workmanship, style, and quality are remarkable, like the designs you loved.»
Scarlett's brain was running. It is obvious that he has no interest to entering in business with me.
Scarlett was beginning to realize that the trip to Charleston had been pointless. She frowned. Her pragmatic mind made her analyze the situation aloud. "Well, then I understand that you are not interested in selling me your garments, which makes me sad, of course. I do understand you though. I need to find another supplier to build up my stock." She pouted a little.
Adorable pout, Duncan admired.
He immediately felt her annoyance. They had come to the crucial point in the conversation where he had planned to give her the names of the suppliers that might interest her. Then she would leave, and he would be relieved of this polite meeting.
Unexpected anguish gripped him at this thought.
In a less confident voice than usual, he suggested, "Perhaps we can find an intermediate solution. I propose to make available to you the items I created for this experimental line. There must be about twenty dresses stored in our workshops. They will be your calling line to attract the wealthy customers of Atlanta and the surrounding area. Even though their prices is out of their reach, they will only want to buy your other beautiful women's clothing at more reasonable prices. »
Scarlett's smile magically reappeared. Immediately though, her pragmatism leaded her to the central question. The price! Was she willing to spend a small fortune to build up only a small part of her stock?
"I am deeply grateful for this offer, Mr. Duncan. It would be a perfect fit. However, I must confess to one fear, that I might not be able to purchase all your wonderful collection. I had budgeted quite a reasonable amount of money for the inventory, but considering the rarity of your creations, I am afraid the price will reach the ceiling for the entire merchandise." She made a small pout of annoyance. This was all working against her plans.
Without thinking twice, the dressmaker made her a proposal she could not refuse: "Save your money for the other suppliers. I propose to put my dresses on deposit in your store. My accountant will draw up the contract. Afterward, they will be sent to your address. When a piece is sold, - and only then -, you will pay the purchase price to La Mode Duncan." With a charming smile, he added, "What do you think of my offer? »
Scarlett was ecstatic! What a great opportunity to launch her new store of high style! She still needed another source of clothes manufacturers though.
"I do not know how to thank you. I am deeply honored by your confidence. Please have no worry : I make it a point to keep my commitments." Then she stopped. She had said that line before… long time ago… The money to buy her sawmill... What a relief and pride to have paid him back on time!
"Mr. Duncan, could you tell me the names of the suppliers I could contact? I would like to sell not only ready-made garments but also a sampling of quality fabrics and a haberdashery department. I would prefer that they be located in the South. I have no desire to give the Yankees my money." Scarlett's defiance was returning.
The former Civil War hero smiled broadly. "Rest assured, the professionals I am thinking of are located here in South Carolina.»
"Oh, this is perfect! I shall write to them and make an appointment. Well, Mr. Duncan..." She straightened up and was about to get up.
Duncan's heart was racing. She was about to leave!
Impulsively, he offered in a husky tone, "Mrs. O'Hara, tomorrow, if your schedule permits, I could introduce you to these textile manufacturers myself and show you my mill. It is about ten miles from here. I could pick you up at your hotel and we could leave, say, at 9:00 a.m.? I would also like to show you around my workshops. »
Scarlett was stunned for a few moments. Everything was suddenly so easy! All she had to do was let herself be guided. »
"Mr. Vayton, I am confused and do not know how to thank you. I accept your proposal with pleasure. I have taken too much of your time. My aunts are waiting for me. I am actually staying at their home, the Robillard house is on the street parallel to this one. »
The name "Robillard" sounded familiar to him. He seized the gloved hand that she presented to him to greet her. Again he smelled her perfume. He dared to brush her silk glove with his whiskers.
As he stood up, his blue eyes drowned in the jade iris: "Perfect! I shall come and pick you up there. Oh! and since we are in business now, please call me Duncan! »
Scarlett's eyes sparked. "In that case, call me Scarlett, please. See you tomorrow Duncan! »
The clerk helped her put on her coat. He walked her to the door, and she left.
He did not move until the thin figure disappeared around the corner.
His heartbeat was disordered. So was Duncan Vayton's heart. He could not wait to get to tomorrow!.
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Notes on Chapter 14:
(*1) Fashion Design Book, designer Charles Frederick Worth, Album of designs, 1860s. Lithographed templates with pencil and watercolour overdrawing, source Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings, . /item/O1105393/fashion-design-book-charles-frederick-worth/
Others patterns from fashion designers Léon Sault, Taubin, and Jules Marre, made for Charles Frederick Worth, are also stored at the Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 London: HMSO, 1964
(*2) The business man Alexander Turney Stewart (October 12, 1803 - April 10, 1876), a native of Ireland, became a multi-millionaire through his retail stores.
Alexander Stewart, creator of the "marble palace", in New York, a department store combining retail and wholesale trade. Opening of the Iron Palace in 1862, a huge structure covering a block from Ninth Street to Tenth Street and Astor Place. More than 19 departments at its creation including clothing, carpets, toys, etc... and 2000 employees, in 1877, 30 departments.
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(*3) In 1863, a journalist, Alice B. Haven provided Godey's readers - a tour of the Iron Palace's interior - source /essays/palaces-of-consumption-a-t-stewart-and-the-dry-goods-emporium/